In short: which arrondissement to stay in
- My pick: the Marais (3rd and 4th). A central location that lets you walk to the Louvre, Notre-Dame and the Latin Quarter, with lots of restaurants.
- First visit to Paris: stay in the 1st to 6th arrondissements. Most of the sights are within walking distance, and the time you save on travel is worth the difference in price.
- Return visit or tighter budget: Montparnasse (14th) gives you restaurants and a convenient location at a lower price than the Marais. The 7th, 12th and 17th also work well.
- The most popular arrondissements with tourists: the Marais, Saint-Germain (6th), the Latin Quarter (5th), the Opéra area (9th) and the Champs-Élysées (8th).
- What matters more than the arrondissement: walking distance from a metro station. Being five minutes’ walk from a station changes your trip more than being one arrondissement farther out.
- Not for a first visit: the 18th to 20th. The prices are tempting, but the distance from the center eats up the time you came for.
One of the questions that comes up in every Paris travel forum is “Where should I stay in Paris?” The question is short, but the answer is complicated. To decide where to stay in Paris in 2026, you need to take quite a few factors into account, such as your budget, the length of your stay, the kind of trip you’re planning, and much more.
So when it comes to where to stay in Paris, there’s no one answer that fits everyone. My goal is to help you find the arrondissement that suits you and your needs best, not to hand you one generic answer. Of course, if you’re in a hurry, you’ll find a few rules of thumb in the table below.
But if you’d like a more detailed answer, keep reading to find out which arrondissements I love most and, just as important, what each Paris arrondissement has going for it. Once you’ve found the one that suits you best, I’ll also be happy to recommend hotels and apartments there. So I hope you’ll come away from this article with the perfect place to stay, and move on to the more exciting parts of planning your trip (food, attractions, walking itineraries and more).

The arrondissements I love staying in most
My favorite arrondissement in recent years is the Marais, and there are 4 main reasons for that:
- As a history buff, there’s nothing I love more than seeing palaces, old alleys and grand churches the moment I step out of my apartment. The Marais has plenty of all of these, so it’s no wonder I love the place so much. The Marais is very central, which makes it easy to walk to attractions like the Louvre, the Latin Quarter, Notre-Dame and so on. For someone who likes to discover Paris on foot, that’s a big advantage. It’s also a very lively neighborhood with lots of restaurants and food shops, so I never go hungry there 🙂
- In recent years I’ve been staying in Udi’s apartments, and he has a big presence in the Marais (7 apartments there, last time I counted). Since I really like his apartments, I end up sleeping in the Marais quite often.
If, for one reason or another, I’m not staying in the Marais, Montparnasse is another arrondissement I really love, thanks to the number of restaurants, the convenient location (I usually stay in the part that’s fairly close to the Luxembourg Gardens) and prices that are lower than in the Marais.
The 14th is also partly close to the 6th, and it has quite a few restaurants and cafés all around Carrefour Vavin and Rue de la Gaîté.
The 7th arrondissement is very close to the 6th. It’s a very upscale area with lots of food shops and restaurants, especially around Rue Cler, Rue de Grenelle and Rue Saint-Dominique.
The 1st arrondissement
And finally, I also really love the 1st arrondissement, especially the part near Rue de Richelieu and the Palais-Royal. That’s partly because it’s so central and full of Asian restaurants, and partly because I stayed there as a child on a few vacations with my parents, so I feel nostalgic about the area.
The 7th and the 14th are arrondissements for seasoned visitors, so I wouldn’t recommend them for a first trip to Paris, but for everyone else they’re wonderful.
Those are the arrondissements I love, but which one is right for you?
Pick a type of trip or tap an arrondissement on the map, and you’ll jump straight to its section.
For families
Stay in the 1st (near Les Halles) for convenience and the direct train to Disneyland. For a cheaper option on the same train line, go for the 12th (near Gare de Lyon).
For romantic couples
The most magical atmosphere is in the Marais, the historic Latin Quarter, or upscale Saint-Germain.
Safety: areas to think twice about
Paris is a safe city for the most part, and I wholeheartedly recommend most of its arrondissements. Still, there are a few areas where I feel less comfortable, mainly in the evening. They’re not “off limits”, but it’s worth knowing about them before you book a hotel.
Place de la République
The square is the favorite spot in Paris for demonstrations. On demonstration days, it’s better to go around it.
The rest of the time it’s a great area: close to the Marais and the Canal Saint-Martin, with quite a few metro lines that can take you anywhere in Paris. So I wouldn’t rule out a hotel nearby just because of the square.
- The streets right next to Gare du Nord
- Parts of Rue du Château-d’Eau
- The immediate area around Place de la République on demonstration days
- The Goutte d’Or neighborhood
- The area around Barbès–Rochechouart
- Pigalle and Boulevard de Clichy (less suitable with kids)
- Parts of Belleville
- The parts of the 20th that border the 19th
Francophile tip
If you still chose a hotel in one of these areas, try to find one as close as possible to a metro station, and stick to the main streets in the evening. And the bottom line: for me, the 1st to 9th arrondissements are completely safe for a first visit.
The most popular arrondissements in Paris
If you believe in the wisdom of the crowd, here are the most popular arrondissements where most tourists choose to stay:
If you’d like to know why each of these arrondissements is so popular and what their drawbacks are, I recommend moving on to the next section of the article.
The pros and cons of each Paris arrondissement
What are the pros and cons of each arrondissement? Here’s all the relevant information, so you can decide for yourself where to stay in Paris.
Full disclosure: As much as I’ve tried to be objective, there’s no getting around the fact that where to stay in Paris is a subjective question by nature. So if you disagree with my take, that’s great! Write to me through the Contact page, and if you manage to convince me, I promise to update the article.
The 1st arrondissement of Paris
The Louvre · Tuileries Garden · Les Halles · Palais-Royal

Pros: Location, location, location! The arrondissement is right in the center, and if you stay here, you’re close to quite a few Paris attractions such as the Louvre Museum, the Centre Pompidou (closed for renovation until 2030) and more. Its central location lets you walk to the Champs-Élysées or the Marais, or simply cross the river to visit the Île de la Cité or the Left Bank of the Seine. In short: if you’ve picked a hotel here, you’re right in the middle of the action.
Cons: The main drawback of this arrondissement is the high price. Also, in its most central parts there are, in my opinion, fewer good restaurants at reasonable prices (though there are definitely quite a few excellent restaurants at prices that aren’t reasonable at all).
Francophile tip: If you’re staying in the 1st arrondissement of Paris, try to stay as close as possible to Rue de Rivoli, the main street of the arrondissement. Personally, I really like the Hôtel Brighton there. It’s not a cheap hotel at all, but the view of the Tuileries Garden is priceless.
-
🏆 My pick in the 1st (luxury and views)
Hôtel Brighton
★★★★💡 Why this one? The location facing the Tuileries Garden is legendary. If you’re looking for the classic Parisian experience with a view of the gardens and the Eiffel Tower, this is the place.
Another excellent option is to stay near the Les Halles metro station. Staying there has a lot going for it, starting with a great location for families and shopping lovers. Its biggest logistical advantage is the huge metro and RER station right next to it. Besides fast, direct access to the airports, the station lets you take a direct and easy train to Disneyland Paris, with no awkward line changes and no dragging yourself through the underground network. That means you can start your big day at the park full of energy, after a good night’s rest in spacious, modern, family-friendly rooms.
-
👨👩👧👦 My pick in the 1st (families and convenience)
Novotel Paris Les Halles
★★★★💡 Why this one? A great location for families and shopping. The station next door takes you directly to the airport and Disneyland, and the rooms are spacious and modern.
The 2nd arrondissement of Paris
Sentier · Montorgueil · the covered passages

Pros: This arrondissement’s location isn’t bad at all in terms of being close to the sights (for example, those of the 1st or the 9th). Some of the most beautiful covered passages in Paris are in this small arrondissement. Despite its central location, prices here are usually lower than in the neighboring 1st or 3rd arrondissements.
Cons: It may be central, but it has a few places that aren’t very pleasant. I mean the northern part of Rue Saint-Denis and the streets that branch off it (for example, Rue Blondel). As far as I know, these are the last places in Paris where you’ll find street prostitution in the evenings (yes, even today). To be clear, it’s not a safety issue, but if you’re traveling to Paris with kids, I recommend staying somewhere else.
Francophile tip: If you decide to stay in this arrondissement, I recommend trying to stay close to Rue Montorgueil with all its culinary delights. There’s no greater pleasure than heading down there or to the Saint-Eustache market and putting together a breakfast, lunch or dinner fit for a king.
A good example of such a hotel is the Hoxton, a hotel with stunning design, less than a ten-minute walk from Rue Montorgueil and also close to the Grands Boulevards (excellent for getting around).
-
🥂 My pick in the 2nd (chic and design)
The Hoxton Paris
★★★★💡 Why this one? A hotel with stunning design and a young, lively atmosphere. It’s perfectly located for anyone who loves food and nightlife, and very close to Rue Montorgueil.
The 3rd arrondissement of Paris (the northern Marais)
Northern Marais · Arts et Métiers

Pros: It’s no secret that the Marais is my favorite arrondissement, mainly thanks to its fascinating history and the mix of palaces with all its chic restaurants and cafés.
If you’d like to wake up in the morning feeling like a marquis who has just stepped out of his hôtel particulier on his way to a literary salon, stay in the heart of the arrondissement. If you stay in the northern part, don’t miss Rue de Bretagne, where you’ll find the Marché des Enfants Rouges and plenty of food shops and cafés.
Cons: Since it’s a very popular arrondissement, prices usually reflect that. If you’d still like to stay in a fairly reasonably priced hotel right on the edge of it (near Place de la République), I recommend the Paris France Hotel.
-
💶 Good value in the northern Marais
Paris France Hotel
★★★💡 Why this one? A very pleasant hotel in a strategic location (between the Marais and République), at a fair price for the area.
Francophile tip: Do you also find it hard to choose between two options? If you stay near the Musée des Arts et Métiers, you can kill two birds with one stone. You’ll be able to reach the 3rd arrondissement within 2–3 minutes on foot, and also get to Les Halles and Rue Montorgueil in about 5 minutes. If you’re looking for a reasonably priced hotel, check out Austin’s Arts et Métiers, and if you’re willing to pay a bit more, take a look at the Hôtel National des Arts et Métiers, which has received quite a few recommendations lately.
-
🏺 My pick near Arts et Métiers
Hôtel National Des Arts et Métiers
★★★★💡 Why this one? A very stylish, trendy hotel right in the middle of the action. It also has a great rooftop and a popular Italian restaurant.
The 4th arrondissement of Paris (the southern Marais and Île Saint-Louis)
Southern Marais · Île Saint-Louis

Pros: The 4th gives you “two for the price of one”: the southern part of the Marais, rich in palaces and history, and the charming, aristocratic Île Saint-Louis. Because it’s so close to the Seine, you can easily hop over to the Latin Quarter and back to the Right Bank whenever you like. Oh, and of course, if you love ice cream and happen to be staying on Île Saint-Louis, I’m sure you’ll appreciate being able to pop downstairs for an ice cream at Berthillon any time you like :).
Cons: Being this central makes the arrondissement fairly expensive compared with those farther out (especially Île Saint-Louis, which has always been an aristocratic, upscale area). Another drawback, if you decide to stay on Île Saint-Louis, is the distance from the metro (there’s no metro station on the island, so you have to walk to the Right Bank or the Left Bank).
Francophile tip: If you decide to stay in the southern Marais, don’t miss Rue Saint-Paul with all its excellent food shops. And make the most of staying there: go and see the Hôtel d’Aumont lit up after dark. It’s simply a wonderful sight!
If you’re looking for a hotel nearby, I recommend the Hôtel de Nice, which sits in one of the best locations in Paris, right on Rue de Rivoli and a minute’s walk from the Hôtel de Ville, the Marais and more.
-
📍 My pick in the 4th
Hôtel De Nice
★★★💡 Why this one? A simply perfect location on Rue de Rivoli, a minute’s walk from the Marais and the Hôtel de Ville. The hotel is decorated in a classic French style (some would say kitsch) and full of character.
The 5th arrondissement of Paris (the Latin Quarter)
Latin Quarter · the Sorbonne · Notre-Dame

Pros: A lively arrondissement thanks to its student population, which has been here since the Middle Ages. There are plenty of restaurants, attractions and bookshops, and lots of charming alleys and streets that are such fun to wander. And of course, being close to the Seine and Notre-Dame doesn’t hurt at all.
Cons: As with all the central arrondissements of Paris, the main drawback is the price.
Francophile tip: Try to stay not far from the RER (suburban train) station called Luxembourg. That way you can take the train straight from the airport (RER B), stay next to one of the most charming gardens in Paris, and be close to Rue Mouffetard with all its restaurants. One example of an inexpensive hotel nearby is the Salvia Paris (formerly the Hôtel des 3 Collèges), but if you look at the links below, you’ll find a few more hotels like it.
-
🎓 My pick in the Latin Quarter
Salvia Paris
★★★💡 Why this one? A modest, pleasant hotel in a fantastic location, facing the Sorbonne and a minute from the Luxembourg Gardens. The price is usually reasonable for such a central location.
The 6th arrondissement of Paris (Saint-Germain)
Saint-Germain · Luxembourg Gardens · the Seine

Pros: Like the 1st, which lies north of the Seine, the 6th, which borders the Seine on the south side, is about as central as it gets. Being close to the river lets you hop over to the Right Bank easily, and around Boulevard Saint-Germain and Rue de Seine you’ll find endless restaurants, cafés and food shops. And we haven’t even mentioned how close you’ll be to the Luxembourg Gardens, the Musée Delacroix, the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés and the cafés where Jean-Paul Sartre (1905-1980) and Simone de Beauvoir (1908-1986) used to sit. In short, as Ernest Hemingway (1899-1961) wrote: a moveable feast!
Cons: I know I sound like a broken chanson record, but here too the main drawback is the price. If you’d still like to stay in Saint-Germain during your time in Paris, and you’re willing to take a modest room in return for a lower price, I recommend the Hôtel Saint Pierre, where my dear friend and one of the greatest Francophiles I know, Yoel Thamanlis, loves to stay.
-
💰 An affordable option in Saint-Germain
Hôtel Saint Pierre
★★💡 Why this one? This hotel is a well-kept secret: modest but clean rooms, an amazing location and a price that’s hard to beat in this area.
Francophile tip: The arrondissement is very central and has almost no “bad” parts. I’d try to stay as close as possible to the Seine, or near Boulevard Saint-Germain, where all the action is. A far from cheap but luxurious option close to both is the Hôtel Bel Ami. A slightly more affordable option is the Victoire & Germain (and the Millésime is excellent too, though far from cheap).
-
💎 My pick in the 6th (luxury)
Hôtel Bel Ami
★★★★★💡 Why this one? A 5-star hotel with modern design, a luxurious spa and a location right in the heart of the Saint-Germain action. Not cheap, but worth every euro.
Whether you’re staying there or just passing through, don’t miss the École des Beaux-Arts de Paris, which is in this arrondissement. I visited it on my last trip to Paris and came back amazed by the beauty of the building and the treasures inside. Admission is free.
The 7th arrondissement of Paris (Faubourg Saint-Germain)
Faubourg Saint-Germain · Musée d’Orsay · Rue Cler

Pros: An aristocratic arrondissement with quite a few grand palaces, most of which now house government ministries and embassies. All of that makes it one of the safest areas in the city, thanks to the number of police officers around. The 7th also has some very important museums, led by the Musée d’Orsay, so it’s definitely not boring. And of course, how could we forget the Eiffel Tower, which so many travelers insist on seeing from their hotel window.
Cons: Because it’s an aristocratic arrondissement, not only are hotel prices fairly high, so are prices in the restaurants and cafés. The 7th is considered less dynamic and sleepier, and it empties out quite a bit at night once all the people working in its offices go home.
Francophile tip: As in the 6th, I highly recommend trying to stay near the Seine, so you can easily cross the river to the Tuileries Garden or the Louvre (one such hotel is the Académie Hôtel Saint Germain).
-
⚜️ My pick in the 7th
Académie Hôtel Saint Germain
★★★★💡 Why this one? A boutique hotel with an “old world” atmosphere, full of period furniture and charm. Very close to the Seine and the Musée d’Orsay.
-
🏠 My pick in the 7th (apartment)
Udi’s apartment on Rue de Grenelle
💡 Why this one? On most of my trips to Paris I stay in Udi’s apartments, and this is one of them: an apartment on Rue de Grenelle, within walking distance of the Champ-de-Mars and the Eiffel Tower and close to Rue Cler. It has a separate bedroom and an extra bed in the living room, a balcony, an elevator and air conditioning.
If you love food, I recommend trying to stay near Rue Cler, where you’ll find quite a few wonderful food shops (if that interests you, try my food walking itinerary in the footsteps of Julia Child).
The 8th arrondissement of Paris
The Champs-Élysées · Arc de Triomphe · the Madeleine

Pros: Like the 7th, this arrondissement is considered upscale (for the most part), which is why quite a few people recommend it. Its main attractions are, of course, the Champs-Élysées and the Arc de Triomphe right at the top of the avenue. The 8th is the most important arrondissement for anyone interested in haute couture, thanks to Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré and Avenue Montaigne, where you’ll find the boutiques of the great Paris fashion houses.
If you’d like to stay near the big department stores, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, consider staying near the Saint-Lazare train station, even though it’s the less glamorous part of the arrondissement (one example of such a hotel is the Hôtel Océanic – Grands Magasins).
Cons: The Champs-Élysées has lost much of its glamour in recent years. The interesting cafés and shops have been replaced by fast-food chains and movie theaters (because of the astronomical rents on the avenue). Add to that quite a few reports of violence and pickpocketing in the area, and you get a place that hasn’t felt safe for a long time.
Francophile tip: Try to look for a hotel or apartment in the parts next to the 1st arrondissement, so you’re close to the center of Paris. In particular, try to stay not far from the Église de la Madeleine, so you can enjoy the food scene around it (one example of such a hotel is the Madeleine Plaza Hotel).
-
⛪ My pick near the Madeleine
Hôtel Madeleine Plaza
★★★★💡 Why this one? A simply fantastic location facing the Église de la Madeleine, steps from the famous Fauchon delicatessen and a short walk from everywhere.
The 9th arrondissement of Paris
The Opéra · the department stores · Rue des Martyrs

Pros: A lively arrondissement thanks to its proximity to the central 1st and 2nd and to the Grands Boulevards that run through it. It has plenty of restaurants, theaters, cafés and the famous department stores (especially lovely at Christmas). And of course, how could we forget the beautiful opera house built by Charles Garnier (1825-1898)?
Cons: Parts of the arrondissement (especially those north of the Grands Boulevards or around Galeries Lafayette) are fairly boring, in my opinion.
Francophile tip: If you’re a beginner Francophile, I recommend staying as close as possible to the Opéra, so you’re close to the center of Paris (for example, at the Hotel Indigo Paris – Opera). For seasoned Francophiles, I’d recommend trying to stay near Rue des Martyrs, one of the most important food streets in Paris.
-
🎭 My pick near the Opéra
Hotel Indigo Paris – Opera
★★★★💡 Why this one? A quiet hotel in the middle of a busy area, on a pleasant pedestrian street. The design is beautiful (inspired by the theaters nearby) and the location is wonderfully central.
The Saint-Georges and Nouvelle Athènes neighborhoods are also lovely, in my opinion, and definitely worth considering. If you’d like to get to know the area a little better, I recommend my walking itinerary through the 9th and 10th arrondissements, which I wrote a few years ago.
The 10th arrondissement of Paris
Canal Saint-Martin · Gare du Nord

Pros: In my view, staying in this arrondissement has two advantages. The first is, of course, the price of apartments and hotels, which is lower because it’s farther from the center. The second is that parts of the arrondissement have a “cool” feel that’s a little hard to describe and explain (maybe because it’s a very lively area, where a new restaurant or bar opens almost every week and the atmosphere is very young).
Cons: The arrondissement is far from the center, and parts of it are rough around the edges (to put it mildly). Personally, I’d try not to stay on the streets right next to the Gare du Nord train station, nor in the western part of Rue du Château-d’Eau or near Boulevard de Strasbourg.
Francophile tip: If you’re looking to stay in the heart of the new, young French chic, try to find a hotel or apartment as close as possible to the Canal Saint-Martin. Or, if you’d rather stay in an area with old, authentic French charm, I’d recommend staying near the Church of Saint-Vincent-de-Paul.
The 11th arrondissement of Paris
Bastille · Oberkampf

Pros: Geographically, parts of this arrondissement are close to Place de la Bastille, where quite a few metro lines meet, and to the Marais. Staying here means living not far from the 3rd and 4th arrondissements, but paying less.
The 11th arrondissement of Paris, which has changed a lot over the last few decades, has endless restaurants, some of them wonderful, especially on the streets leading off Place de la Bastille. So every time you head back to your hotel or apartment in the evening, you’ll have no trouble finding a good place for dinner, which makes it an excellent arrondissement to stay in.
And finally, this arrondissement is home to Rue Oberkampf, a real party for night owls thanks to all the clubs and bars around it.
Cons: The eastern parts of the arrondissement are far from the center.
Francophile tip: If you’re renting an apartment, I highly recommend staying near the Marché d’Aligre, which is technically in the 12th but right on the border of the 11th. In my opinion, it’s the best food market in Paris, and it can supply you with endless treats for breakfast.
The 12th arrondissement of Paris
Gare de Lyon · Nation · Marché d’Aligre

Pros: Since this arrondissement is considered fairly far out, prices are lower, and you can find excellent hotels like the citizenM at very reasonable prices. The 12th is also home to the Gare de Lyon train station, so it’s a good option if you’re planning to take the train to the south of France.
Cons: In my view, the relative distance from the center is the main drawback of this arrondissement. Parts of it are also very modern, so if you stay there hoping to live in the middle of old Haussmann-era Paris, you’ll be disappointed.
-
🚄 My pick near Gare de Lyon
CitizenM Paris Gare de Lyon
★★★★💡 Why this one? A modern, colorful, fun hotel with a great view of the Seine. The location is perfect if you’re planning train trips or a day at Disneyland (RER A).
Francophile tip: If you want to stay as close to the center of Paris as possible, try to find a hotel or apartment near Place de la Bastille. For seasoned Francophiles, I recommend staying near Place de la Nation. It’s a lovely square in its own right, and all the streets leading to it feel very “Parisian”. Quite a few metro lines pass through it, so you can get anywhere in Paris very easily. If you wander around the area a little, you’ll discover a few gems, like the Picpus Cemetery, where the Marquis de Lafayette (1757-1834) is buried, and the beautiful, little-known Place Félix-Éboué.
The 13th arrondissement of Paris
Butte-aux-Cailles · Place d’Italie · Chinatown

Pros: The main advantage of this arrondissement is the price. Beyond that, it has a few lovely corners that are really nice to stay in, such as the Butte-aux-Cailles. And if you love Asian food, you’ll be happy to discover Paris’s Chinatown south of Place d’Italie, with all its Vietnamese, Chinese, Cambodian and Thai restaurants.
Cons: The arrondissement (especially its southern and eastern parts) is fairly far from the center, and most of it is made up of dull residential towers that will make you feel as if you’re staying in a faceless suburb.
Francophile tip: Try to find a hotel on Avenue des Gobelins, as close as possible to the 5th, so you’re near the center. Another option is to stay near Place d’Italie, because several metro lines pass through it and it’s close to the Butte-aux-Cailles. A last option is to stay near the Gare d’Austerlitz, close to the Seine and the Jardin des Plantes.
The 14th arrondissement of Paris
Montparnasse · Carrefour Vavin · Rue de la Gaîté

Pros: This is an arrondissement with history, thanks to the artists and intellectuals who settled here in the early 20th century. It has a cluster of very decent restaurants, and if you love crêpes, you’ll enjoy a visit to Rue du Montparnasse, home to some of the best crêperies in Paris.
As in every arrondissement far from the center, apartments and hotels here are fairly cheap. One option is to stay near the RER station called Denfert-Rochereau. That way you can get there straight from the airport, and even though it’s a little far from the center, you can walk to the Luxembourg Gardens quite easily.
Cons: The main drawback is the distance from the center, and the fact that a large part of the arrondissement (mainly its southern part) is a fairly boring residential area, in my opinion. Seasoned Francophiles won’t mind as much, because they’ll be happy to discover an arrondissement with plenty of historic charm, but beginners will prefer a more central location.
Francophile tip: The Hotel Delambre is a great base, and for good reason. It’s on a lively street with quite a few restaurants and close to Boulevard du Montparnasse with all its famous cafés. It’s also very close to Rue de la Gaîté, home to the famous Bobino concert hall, where Barbara (1930-1997) and Georges Brassens (1921-1981) performed (today the street also has some very decent restaurants, the most famous being Le Plomb du Cantal, which serves excellent but very filling food from the Auvergne).
-
🎨 My pick in Montparnasse
Hotel Delambre
★★★💡 Why this one? The hotel is in a strategic location, close to all the famous cafés of Montparnasse and to excellent public transport. The atmosphere is warm and homey.
The 15th arrondissement of Paris
Grenelle market · Parc André-Citroën

Pros: This arrondissement is very close to the Eiffel Tower (which is why almost every hotel or apartment around here is named after the famous tower, even when it’s several kilometers away). The 15th is also home to the excellent Grenelle market. Another advantage is that it’s a quiet, middle-class and very safe arrondissement, and because it’s far from the center, it’s also cheap. And finally, for shopping lovers, it has a real plus: the Beaugrenelle shopping mall.
Cons: To me, this is the most boring arrondissement in Paris, and personally I’d never stay there. On the other hand, I know quite a few people who stayed there and really enjoyed it.
Francophile tip: Try to stay as close as possible to the Montparnasse train station, so you’re near the more central 14th and 6th arrondissements. Another option is to stay near the Eiffel Tower (if seeing the tower from your apartment or hotel window really matters to you). If you love food, I’d recommend staying near the Grenelle market.
The 16th arrondissement of Paris
Bois de Boulogne · Avenue Mozart

Pros: A very upscale arrondissement with quite a few impressive buildings (especially from the 19th century). Nature lovers will also enjoy a visit to the Bois de Boulogne on the western edge of the arrondissement. And finally, if you want to stay not far from the Arc de Triomphe or the Eiffel Tower, this arrondissement is definitely for you.
Cons: A sleepy arrondissement, parts of which are fairly far from the center. In my view, it mainly suits seasoned Francophiles who want to take it easy and discover the lovely neighborhood they’re staying in (and there’s definitely plenty to discover there).
Francophile tip: A few years ago I met a couple of friends who live in the area, and they introduced me to Avenue Mozart. I was very happy to discover it’s a lively avenue with decent restaurants and wonderful food shops, so if I had to stay in this arrondissement, I’d definitely consider staying there.
The 17th arrondissement of Paris
Parc Monceau · Rue Poncelet · Rue de Lévis

Pros: A quiet, pleasant residential arrondissement. It borders my favorite park in Paris, Parc Monceau, and this part is not only beautiful but also fascinating in terms of architecture and history. That’s because of the gorgeous houses built for some of the greatest courtesans of the 19th century. And finally, because it’s far from the center, you can find hotels and apartments at reasonable prices in the 17th arrondissement of Paris.
Cons: The distance from the center is the main drawback of this arrondissement. Its northern parts are also less pleasant (in my opinion).
Francophile tip: Try to stay near Rue Poncelet or Rue de Lévis, both of which have simply wonderful food markets.
The 18th arrondissement of Paris
Montmartre · Abbesses · Lepic

Pros: In one word: Montmartre. A magical place that has managed to keep a little of its village atmosphere. There’s a unique magic to the alleys of the 18th arrondissement, and staying here is quite an experience. If you love chansons, staying here is a big plus, because you can walk home after an evening of chansons at Au Lapin Agile, which ends after midnight.
Cons: The first drawback is, of course, the distance from the center (but that’s a drawback all the outer arrondissements of Paris share). The 18th also has entire areas that feel unsafe, which I strongly recommend staying away from:
- The Goutte d’Or neighborhood
- The Barbès–Rochechouart area
- Pigalle and Boulevard de Clichy, which are full of sex shops and prostitution (though less than they used to be). It’s not a big deal if you’re adults, but it’s not pleasant if you’re traveling with kids.
Francophile tip: Try to stay near Rue des Abbesses and Rue Lepic, and you’ll be able to enjoy the wonderful food shops there.
The 19th arrondissement of Paris
Parc des Buttes-Chaumont · Belleville

Pros: One of the cheapest arrondissements in Paris (maybe even the cheapest). Also, if you take a shared shuttle from Charles de Gaulle airport, there’s a good chance you’ll be dropped off first.
Cons: An area considered poor because of its distance from the center and the slaughterhouses it once had. Like the rest of Paris, it’s going through gentrification, but large parts of it still feel unpleasant (mainly around Belleville). It’s a place for seasoned Francophiles who know what they’re doing, or for travelers on a shoestring.
Francophile tip: Try to find an apartment or hotel near the lovely Buttes-Chaumont park.
The 20th arrondissement of Paris
Père Lachaise · Alexandre Dumas

Pros: As in all the outer arrondissements of Paris, prices here are much lower than in central Paris. And because this is an area where immigrants have historically lived, the food scene is varied and you’ll find some very decent ethnic restaurants. And finally, if you’d like to live next to all kinds of celebrities and don’t really mind that they’re dead, the streets around Père Lachaise Cemetery are for you 🙂
Cons: The distance from the center. Also, the neighborhoods bordering the 19th aren’t particularly pleasant.
Francophile tip: A few years ago I stayed not far from the Alexandre Dumas metro station and discovered a lovely area with a very authentic Parisian feel.
To sum up: all 20 arrondissements in one table
| Arrondissement | Area | Character in brief | Prices | Especially good for | My hotel |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | The Louvre, Les Halles | Completely central | €€€€ | First visit, families | Hôtel Brighton · Novotel Paris Les Halles |
| 2 | Sentier, Montorgueil | Covered passages and food | €€€ | Food lovers | The Hoxton Paris |
| 3 | Northern Marais | History, palaces and cafés | €€€ | Couples | Paris France Hotel · Hôtel National Des Arts et Métiers |
| 4 | Southern Marais, Île Saint-Louis | Two for the price of one | €€€€ | Couples | Hôtel De Nice |
| 5 | Latin Quarter | Students, books and alleys | €€€ | Couples | Salvia Paris |
| 6 | Saint-Germain | Cafés, the Seine and the Luxembourg Gardens | €€€€ | Couples, first visit | Hôtel Saint Pierre · Hôtel Bel Ami |
| 7 | Faubourg Saint-Germain, Rue Cler | Upscale, safe, lots of food shops | €€€€ | Return visits, peace and quiet | Académie Hôtel Saint Germain · Udi’s apartment on Rue de Grenelle |
| 8 | The Champs-Élysées, the Madeleine | Luxury and fashion | €€€€ | Shopping | Hôtel Madeleine Plaza |
| 9 | The Opéra | Theaters and department stores | €€€ | Shopping | Hotel Indigo Paris – Opera |
| 10 | Canal Saint-Martin | Young and “cool” | €€ | Return visits | – |
| 11 | Bastille, Oberkampf | Restaurants and bars | €€ | Budget, food lovers | – |
| 12 | Gare de Lyon, Nation | Trains south and to Disneyland | €€ | Budget, families | CitizenM Paris Gare de Lyon |
| 13 | Butte-aux-Cailles, Chinatown | Cheap, lots of residential towers | €€ | Budget | – |
| 14 | Montparnasse | Artists and crêperies | €€ | Return visits, budget | Hotel Delambre |
| 15 | Grenelle market, near the tower | Middle-class, quiet and safe | €€ | Eiffel Tower views | – |
| 16 | Bois de Boulogne, Avenue Mozart | Upscale and sleepy | €€€ | Seasoned Francophiles | – |
| 17 | Parc Monceau | Quiet and residential, great food markets | €€€ | Food lovers, a quiet stay | – |
| 18 | Montmartre | Village charm, next to some rough areas | €€ | Seasoned Francophiles | – |
| 19 | Parc des Buttes-Chaumont | Maybe the cheapest in Paris | € | Seasoned Francophiles | – |
| 20 | Père Lachaise, Alexandre Dumas | Authentic, varied food | € | Seasoned Francophiles | – |
Price level: € cheap · €€€€ very expensive. All based on my own impressions, not a price list.
