Recommended Apartments in the 9th Arrondissement of Paris (the Opéra, the Grands Boulevards and Lower Montmartre)

A stylish guest apartment on the edge of the 9th arrondissement, between Pigalle and Montmartre. What sets it apart is that Rosemary, the owner, is around: she serves breakfast and gives real local tips, the exact opposite of the keypad check-in that has become the norm in Paris. All around you is the liveliest part of Paris after midnight: music halls, bars and cafés, with Montmartre up the hill. And that’s also the catch: the boulevard itself is busy, and on weekends the traffic and noise go on into the small hours. I recommend asking for a room facing the inner courtyard rather than the street, and if you’re sensitive to noise, consider a different arrondissement altogether.

Small, comfortable apartments between the Saint-Lazare station and Pigalle, from the same chain I also recommended in the 4th and 3rd arrondissements. Their system is consistent: self check-in with a code at any hour, with no front desk and no waiting, which is very convenient if you land at an odd hour. Each unit has a kitchenette with a microwave and a stovetop, and you can have breakfast delivered to your door. The La Cigale concert hall is nearby, and the big department stores are within walking distance. Keep in mind that there’s no air-conditioning here, only a fan, which is the standard pattern in this chain. You’ll feel it in August. I recommend them for a couple coming in spring or fall who want full independence.

An aparthotel with 99 apartments at 43 Rue Caumartin, from studios for two to one-bedroom apartments for four. They’re all air-conditioned, with a kitchen that includes a dishwasher, a microwave and a stovetop, and the building has a 24-hour front desk, a gym and washing machines and dryers in the basement. The Palais Garnier is 300 meters away, and the department stores on Boulevard Haussmann are around the corner. Two things are worth knowing: cleaning is included only for stays of eight nights or more, and costs extra for shorter stays. Also, there’s no oven in the kitchen, only a combination microwave. I recommend asking for a unit that doesn’t face the street, because you can hear the traffic on Rue Caumartin at night.

An apartment of about 35 square meters on Boulevard Haussmann, with a separate bedroom, a living room, a kitchenette with a dishwasher and a washing machine, and a shower. What makes it stand out is a private 7-square-meter balcony, and in this part of Paris a balcony is a real luxury. It has a private entrance, an elevator and 24-hour security. The Palais Garnier is a three-minute walk away, Printemps is six minutes, and the Auber station is five. Keep three details in mind: there’s no air-conditioning, only fans, arriving after 8 p.m. costs €30, and check-out is at 10 a.m., earlier than usual. I recommend it for a couple who plan to have dinner on the balcony and aren’t traveling in August.

Apartments with a living room and a separate bedroom on Rue Blanche. In other words, not a studio but a real separation, and that makes a difference when you’re staying for a week. The neighborhood here is called Nouvelle Athènes, and in the 19th century George Sand (1804-1876), Frédéric Chopin (1810-1849) and Eugène Delacroix (1798-1863) lived here. Today it’s surprisingly quiet and residential, with steep streets and neighborhood cafés, yet it’s surrounded by metro stations on every side. I’ve gathered the attractions in the 9th arrondissement on a separate page. Keep in mind that Rue Blanche runs down to Pigalle, and the character changes a lot as you get closer to the boulevard at night. I recommend it if you want a real neighborhood and not a shop window.

A residence with 90 apartments at 30 Rue Joubert, from studios to three-room apartments and duplexes. They’re all air-conditioned, with a kitchenette that includes a dishwasher and a microwave, light wood floors, a safe and a TV. The front desk is staffed 24 hours, and there’s luggage storage, a babysitting service and two accessible units. In terms of location, it’s one of the most convenient on the list: the Saint-Lazare station is 280 meters away, Havre-Caumartin 290, the Palais Garnier 400 meters, and there are bakeries and supermarkets within 200 meters. Keep in mind that the units are fairly small for the price, and that cleaning and laundry cost extra. I recommend it if you prefer reliability and service over character.

A small, intimate place: only nine apartments at 77 Rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière, with a garden and an inner courtyard that most of the units overlook. The apartments are air-conditioned and soundproofed, with an equipped kitchenette, and there’s a concierge, babysitting, high chairs for babies and an airport shuttle if you arrange it in advance. One of the units is fully accessible. The Poissonnière station on line 7 is 200 meters away, with a direct line to Galeries Lafayette, the Opéra and the Louvre. The Folies Bergère is nearby. Keep in mind that this is the eastern edge of the arrondissement, closer to the Gare du Nord than to the Opéra, and that breakfast costs extra. I recommend it if you prefer a small place over a 90-unit residence.

Only six apartments in an 18th-century building at 64 Rue Caumartin, all recently renovated. They sleep four to six people and are air-conditioned, with soundproof windows, an equipped kitchenette, a safe and luggage storage. One of them is a 28-square-meter studio with two windows that open onto a balcony. Daniel, who runs the place, gets praise from guests for being available and giving practical advice, and you can’t take that for granted. The Printemps department store is right nearby, and the Haussmann-Saint-Lazare station is 600 meters away. Keep in mind that check-in is possible between 3 and 10 p.m., and that check-out is at 10 a.m., earlier than usual in Paris. I recommend planning your departure day around it and not counting on a late check-out.

A spacious two-level apartment with a mezzanine on Rue Ballu, one of the quietest and prettiest streets in the 9th arrondissement. This is the Nouvelle Athènes area, where private villas and 19th-century townhouses stand in a row, and at its edge is the Musée de la Vie Romantique with its tea garden. From here you can walk up to Montmartre and to the Pigalle nightlife area in a few minutes, and to the restaurants on Rue des Martyrs. The layout on two levels gives you a real separation between the sleeping area and the living area, which is a plus for a group. Keep in mind that the inside stairs aren’t comfortable for everyone, especially for small children or anyone who has trouble walking. I recommend it for a group of adults rather than a family with toddlers.

A huge apartment with a clean, modern design that sleeps eight to ten people, which is almost impossible to find in central Paris at a reasonable price. It’s the obvious choice for two families traveling together who want to sleep under one roof. The name comes from the Drouot auction house, which has operated here since 1852 and is worth a visit even if you’re not buying: admission is free on viewing days. It’s also very close to the Passage des Panoramas, the oldest covered passage in Paris. Keep in mind that this is a rental and not a hotel: there’s no front desk, no room service, and everything is arranged with the hosts in advance. I recommend settling your arrival time and the number of keys with them weeks ahead, not on the day you land.

A carefully designed apartment with four bedrooms, meant for a large family or two families. Four real bedrooms in central Paris are rare, and most places marketed that way rely on sofa beds in the living room. That’s not the case here. It’s right next to the metro, and from the 9th arrondissement you can reach almost anywhere in the city on one line without changing. The Opéra area, the department stores and the covered passages are within walking distance, and I’ve mapped out the route between them on the covered passages walk page. Keep in mind that this is a rental apartment and not a hotel: there’s no front desk, no daily cleaning and no concierge service. I recommend checking in advance how many bathrooms there are, because in an apartment this size, that’s the difference between comfortable and cramped.