In short
- What’s there: Rue de Lévis, the Musée Henner, Batignolles, the Cité des Fleurs and Notre-Dame de Compassion.
- Location: northwest Paris, between the Arc de Triomphe and Montmartre.
- Good to know: Parc Monceau belongs to the 8th, and only its edge touches the 17th.
- Food markets: four, and two of them are covered and open into the evening. Rue de Lévis is also open almost every day.
- Restaurants: five recommendations, centered on Batignolles and Rue des Dames.
- Who it suits: anyone looking for a real Parisian neighborhood rather than monuments.
- Walking itineraries: two, and both take place entirely inside the arrondissement.
The 17th is the arrondissement people usually visit without knowing it. They come to Parc Monceau, get off at Ternes or head to the Palais des Congrès, and never stop to see what’s around them.
And what’s around them is Batignolles, a neighborhood that was a village outside Paris until 1860, where Édouard Manet (1832-1883) and his friends met in the cafés. Right through the middle runs a food street that in my eyes is the tastiest in Paris, and I wrote a whole article about it.
So before we set off, let’s talk about what you’ll find on this page: first the hotels and apartments I recommend in the arrondissement, then the attractions one by one, the five restaurants I send people to, the food markets with their days and hours, and finally the walking itineraries.
Recommended hotels in the 17th arrondissement of Paris
The 17th is a sensible choice if you want to be close to the Arc de Triomphe at the price of a residential arrondissement, or if you’re coming for a conference at the Palais des Congrès. If you’re not sure what suits you, answer three questions and I’ll pick from my recommendations:
My personal pick
Which hotel in the 17th suits you?
One short question, and I will pick out of the places I already checked and wrote about on the site the ones that fit the trip you are planning.
One moment, I am going over my recommendations to find what fits you…
Prefer to go through all the recommendations yourself, with photos and details on each hotel? See my page of recommended hotels in the 17th.
Recommended apartments in the 17th arrondissement of Paris
With Rue de Lévis and two covered markets open into the evening, an apartment with a kitchen is the practical idea in this arrondissement. Here too, you can let me choose:
My personal pick
Which apartment in the 17th suits you?
One question about the area, and I will filter the apartments I checked and wrote about on the site. The apartments I recommend directly get booked very fast, so I added excellent Booking.com apartments that I hand-picked for my readers.
One moment, I am going over my recommendations to find what fits you…
Want to go through all the apartments I recommend, with photos and details? See my page of recommended apartments in the 17th.
Attractions in the 17th arrondissement of Paris
These are the sites I recommend in the 17th, and three of them are free.
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My top pick
Rue de Lévis
In my eyes the tastiest food street in Paris, and there are hardly any tourists.
It isn’t a city market but a pedestrian street of permanent shops, so it’s open almost every day and not only on market days. What you’ll find there: bakeries, cheese, fish, pastry shops and greengrocers, at neighborhood prices rather than city-center prices. This is the place if you’re staying in an apartment and want to cook.
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Hidden museum
Musée Jean-Jacques Henner
A 19th-century painter’s mansion, kept the way it was.
Jean-Jacques Henner (1829-1905) was a very successful painter in his day and is almost forgotten today, and that is exactly what makes the place interesting. The house itself is a complete Parisian artist’s mansion from the late 19th century, built for the painter Guillaume Dubufe, with a large studio upstairs. It is a small national museum, an hour is enough, and there are hardly any visitors.
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On the border with the 8th
Parc Monceau
An English-style park with a rotunda and classical columns.
An administrative point worth knowing: the park itself belongs to the 8th, at 35 boulevard de Courcelles, and only its northern edge touches the 17th. It was created in the 18th century as the private garden of the Duke of Chartres, Philippe d’Orléans (1747-1793), and it was designed on purpose like a romantic ruin, with broken columns and a small pyramid. That’s why, if you’re looking for the area around the park, you’ll also find it on my page on the 8th.
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Free entry
Notre-Dame de Compassion
A small chapel built in memory of a prince who died in a carriage accident.
In 1842 Ferdinand Philippe, Duke of Orléans (1810-1842), the eldest son and heir of King Louis-Philippe (reigned 1830-1848), was killed when he jumped from a runaway carriage on his way to Neuilly. The family built a chapel on the spot, with stained-glass windows designed by Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres (1780-1867). The chapel was moved here from its original site in 1970, and few people go in.
More attractions in the 17th worth knowing
These are places I haven’t written a separate article about yet, but if you’re wandering around the arrondissement, it’s worth knowing they’re there:
| The place | Address | Why stop there |
|---|---|---|
| Parc Martin Luther King (Clichy-Batignolles) | 147 rue Cardinet | A new park on old railway land, with a view of the new Paris courthouse |
| Square des Batignolles | 144 bis rue Cardinet | An English-style garden from the Second Empire, with a pond and an artificial grotto |
| Cité des Fleurs | 154 avenue de Clichy | A private lane from 1847 lined with houses and gardens. People live there, so walk through quietly |
| Sainte-Marie des Batignolles church | Place du Docteur Félix Lobligeois | A neoclassical church in the middle of a square that looks like a village, which is exactly what it was |
| Palais des Congrès | 2 place de la Porte Maillot | A conference and show center, and a big shopping mall if you need shelter from the rain |
| Ternes flower market | Place des Ternes | A flower market, not a food market, open almost every day on Place des Ternes |
Tours and activities in the 17th that might interest you
Show me more activities in Paris
And if you’re looking for attractions in other parts of the city, my Paris attractions page brings them all together in one place.
My recommended restaurants in the 17th arrondissement of Paris
In the 17th my list is centered on Batignolles and Rue des Dames, and these are places where the crowd is mostly local:
| The restaurant | Type | Address | Why |
|---|---|---|---|
| L’Atelier des Batignolles | French classic | 12 Rue des Batignolles | A neighborhood bistro near the square, with a completely local crowd |
| Le Relais de Venise | French classic | 271 Bd Pereire | One single menu, steak and fries, and no reservations. You show up and wait |
| Maison Sauvage | French classic | 13 Bd de Courcelles | A place with over-the-top plant decor, right next to Parc Monceau |
| Mova | French classic | 39 Rue des Dames | Modern French cooking on the street that has become the food axis of the arrondissement |
| Janine | On my radar | 90 Rue des Dames | A young place on the same street that has caught my eye |
Looking for restaurants in other arrondissements? My page of recommended restaurants is organized by type of cuisine and by arrondissement.
The food markets of the 17th arrondissement of Paris
The arrondissement has four food markets, and two of them are covered and open into the evening. Besides them, Rue de Lévis works like a market, except that its shops are permanent. The hours below are from the City of Paris website.
| The market | Address | Days and hours | Metro |
|---|---|---|---|
| Marché couvert des Batignolles | 96 bis rue Lemercier | Tuesday to Friday 9:00 to 14:00 and 16:00 to 20:30, Saturday 8:30 to 20:30, Sunday 8:30 to 14:00 | Brochant |
| Marché couvert des Ternes | 8 bis rue Lebon | Tuesday to Friday 8:00 to 14:30 and 16:00 to 19:30, Saturday 8:00 to 19:30, Sunday 8:00 to 13:00 | Ternes |
| Marché Navier | Between rue Navier, rue Lantiez and rue des Épinettes | Wednesday 7:00 to 13:30, Saturday 7:00 to 14:30 | Guy Môquet |
| Marché Berthier | Boulevard de Reims, along square André Ulmann | Wednesday 7:00 to 13:30, Saturday 7:00 to 14:30 | Porte de Champerret |
Besides these four, the Batignolles organic market runs on Saturdays on Boulevard des Batignolles, which divides the 17th from the 8th, where I listed it. On my markets page you’ll find the best markets in the rest of the city.
Walking itineraries in the 17th arrondissement of Paris
Two itineraries take place entirely inside this arrondissement, and none pass through it and carry on.
Want all the itineraries I’ve written, by arrondissement and by theme? My Paris walking itineraries page brings them all together.
The next step in your trip
The 17th sits between the Arc de Triomphe and the 8th and Montmartre, so it’s easy to combine: a morning on Rue de Lévis and in Batignolles, and from there on foot east to Montmartre.
And if you want to be ready in advance for every scenario, my complete Paris guide gathers everything I’ve learned for you. Have an amazing trip, and don’t forget to buy some cheese on Rue de Lévis for me.
