The 2nd Arrondissement of Paris: Covered Passages, Attractions, Restaurants and Walking Itineraries

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The 2nd Arrondissement of Paris: Covered Passages, Attractions, Restaurants and Walking Itineraries
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In short
The 2nd is the smallest arrondissement of Paris, home to the most beautiful covered passages in the city and one of the best food streets in the center.
  • What’s there: the Galerie Vivienne, the Galerie Colbert, the Passage des Panoramas, the Tour Jean sans Peur, the Le Grand Rex movie theater and Rue Montorgueil.
  • Location: the Right Bank, between the Louvre and the Grands Boulevards.
  • Tickets: most of the sites are free to enter, and only the Rex Studios tour needs to be booked ahead.
  • Who it suits: anyone who likes to wander slowly and isn’t looking for big museums.
  • Food market: the Marché Bourse, Tuesday and Friday from 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., running into the evening.
  • Restaurants: four recommendations in the arrondissement, most of them around Montorgueil and the Bourse.
  • Walking itineraries: the covered passages itinerary mostly takes place here, and four more pass through.

The 2nd arrondissement is the smallest administrative unit in Paris, squeezed in between the Louvre and the Grands Boulevards. Don’t let its size fool you: this is the arrondissement where modern retail was born, and it’s home to the most beautiful covered passages left in the city.

For a traveler it’s an arrondissement that rewards anyone who walks slowly and looks up. There’s no single monument everyone comes for, so there are also none of the lines of the neighboring 1st arrondissement. What you get instead is glass-roofed 19th-century galleries, a huge Art Deco movie theater, a medieval tower nobody expects to find, and one of the best food streets in central Paris.

So before we set off, here is what you’ll find on this page: first the hotels and apartments I recommend in the arrondissement, then the attractions one by one, the restaurants I send people to, the arrondissement’s food market with its days and hours, and finally the walking itineraries that pass through here.

The 2nd is one of the most sensible places to sleep in Paris: central, well connected to the metro, and without the prices of the streets around Place Vendôme. If you’re not sure what suits you, answer three questions and I’ll pick from my recommendations:

My personal pick

Which hotel in the 2nd arrondissement suits you?

One short question, and I will pick out of the places I already checked and wrote about on the site the ones that fit the trip you are planning.

Want to search more areas too?

I already searched the area of this article. Pick more areas and tap the button.

Prefer to go through all my recommendations yourself, with photos and details on every hotel? Here is my page of recommended hotels in the 2nd.

The Montorgueil area is one of the best places in Paris to rent an apartment, because everything you need to cook is on one street: a bakery, cheese, fish, vegetables and wine. Here too, you can let me choose:

My personal pick

Which apartment in the 2nd arrondissement suits you?

One question about the area, and I will filter the apartments I checked and wrote about on the site. The apartments I recommend directly get booked very fast, so I added excellent Booking.com apartments that I hand-picked for my readers.

Want to search more areas too?

I already searched the area of this article. Pick more areas and tap the button.

Want to go through all the apartments I recommend, with photos and details? Here is my page of recommended apartments in the 2nd.

Attractions and Museums in the 2nd Arrondissement of Paris

The 2nd doesn’t win on the number of museums, and that’s exactly what makes it interesting: the sites here are buildings still used for what they were built for, and most of them are free to enter.

  1. Oval Room free to enter
    The National Library of France, Richelieu site. Photo: Zvi Chazanov

    National Library of France, Richelieu Site (BnF Richelieu)

    5 Rue Vivienne · Metro BourseThe museum, the Oval Room and almost 400 years of history

    The former palace of Cardinal Mazarin (1602–1661), which became the historic home of the library of the kings of France. The Oval Room and the garden are open to everyone for free, and the museum shows around 900 treasures.

  2. Hidden gem
    The turret of the Tour Jean sans Peur in Paris. Photo: Yoel Thamanlis

    Tour Jean sans Peur

    20 Rue Étienne Marcel · Metro Étienne Marcel

    One of the last remnants of medieval Paris, and it gets only a handful of visitors.

  3. A must for movie lovers
    The Le Grand Rex movie theater in Paris

    Le Grand Rex and Rex Studios

    1 Boulevard Poissonnière · Metro Bonne Nouvelle

    The largest movie theater in Europe, in Art Deco style, with a behind-the-scenes tour that works wonderfully with kids.

  4. Free entry
    The Galerie Vivienne in Paris. Photo: Zvi Chazanov

    Galerie Vivienne and Galerie Colbert

    4 Rue des Petits-Champs · Metro BourseTwo hidden wonders in the heart of Paris

    The most beautiful of the Paris passages, and next to it the Galerie Colbert, which few visitors bother to step into.

  5. Free entry
    The Passage des Panoramas in Paris. Photo: Zvi Chazanov

    Passage des Panoramas

    11 Boulevard Montmartre · Metro Grands BoulevardsThe theater, the chocolate and the scandals

    The oldest covered passage in Paris, and today also one of the best food spots in the center.

  6. Food
    Rue Montorgueil in Paris

    Rue Montorgueil

    Rue Montorgueil · Metro Sentier or Étienne MarcelBetween a hunger for food and a hunger for flesh

    The culinary heart of the arrondissement, a pedestrian street of bakeries, cheese shops, fishmongers and cafés.

More Sights in the 2nd Arrondissement Worth Knowing

These are places you can walk into for free or see from the outside, with no ticket to book. I haven’t written a separate article about them yet, but if you’re wandering around the arrondissement, it’s worth knowing they’re there:

PlaceAddressWhy stop there
Palais BrongniartPlace de la BourseThe stock exchange building Napoleon commissioned, with a colonnade that looks like a Roman temple in the middle of the city
Notre-Dame-des-Victoires church6 Rue Notre-Dame-des-VictoiresThe church walls are covered with thousands of thank-you plaques left by worshippers over a century and a half
Richelieu wing of the National Library (BnF Richelieu)5 Rue VivienneThe oval reading room is open to the public for free, and to me it’s one of the most impressive spaces in Paris
Passage du Grand-Cerf145 Rue Saint-DenisThe tallest covered passage in Paris, about 12 meters high, and today mostly home to designers’ workshops
Rue Sainte-AnneRue Sainte-AnneThe Japanese quarter of Paris, and the place for real ramen after a day of museums
Théâtre des Variétés7 Boulevard MontmartreThe theater from 1807 that Émile Zola (1840–1902) wrote about in Nana, and it’s still running

Tours and Activities in the 2nd That Might Interest You

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And if you’re looking for attractions in other parts of the city, my Paris attractions page brings them all together in one place.

This is where the 2nd beats its neighbor without breaking a sweat. The Montorgueil area and the streets around the Bourse are full of places where locals really eat, not just tourists passing through. These are my four recommendations:

RestaurantTypeAddressWhy
Le MesturetClassic French77 Rue de RichelieuA bistro that does the basic French dishes the way they should be done, at sane prices for central Paris
Le Grand ColbertHistoric brasserie2 Rue VivienneA late 19th-century style dining room, one of those places that looks exactly like the picture you have in your head
HigumaAsian32bis Rue Sainte-AnneJapanese ramen in the heart of the Japanese quarter. The line outside is long, and it moves fast
Le Petit VendômeReader’s pickNear Place VendômeA tip I got from my reader Nadav Kahn. Sandwiches and simple meals in a place where locals eat

Looking for restaurants in other arrondissements? My page of recommended restaurants is organized by type of cuisine and by arrondissement.

The Food Market of the 2nd Arrondissement of Paris

One city market operates in the 2nd, and it isn’t an early-morning market: it runs into the evening. That’s actually handy for travelers, because you can drop by after a morning of museums instead of getting up early for it.

MarketAddressDays and hoursMetro
Marché BoursePlace de la BourseTuesday and Friday, 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.Bourse

And if you’re in the arrondissement on a Sunday morning, the Les Halles market in the 1st is open on Rue Montmartre from 7:00 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., a short walk from Montorgueil. On my markets page you’ll find the recommended markets in the rest of the city.

Walking Itineraries in the 2nd Arrondissement of Paris

The 2nd is too small to fill a whole day on its own, so most of the itineraries I’ve written pass through it and carry on. I’ve split them in two: one that mostly takes place here, and the others that touch it along the way.

The Itinerary That Takes Place in the 2nd

Itineraries Through the 2nd and Other Arrondissements

Want all the itineraries I’ve written, by arrondissement and by theme? My Paris walking itineraries page brings them all together.

The Next Step in Your Trip

The 2nd is over quickly, and that’s its big advantage: its neighbors are within walking distance. To the south the Louvre and the 1st arrondissement are waiting for you, and to the east the Marais.

And if you want to be ready ahead of time for every scenario, my complete Paris guide brings together everything I’ve learned. Have a wonderful trip, and don’t forget to stop on Rue Montorgueil for me.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is there to see in the 2nd arrondissement of Paris?
The 2nd is home to the Tour Jean sans Peur, the Le Grand Rex movie theater, the Galerie Vivienne and Galerie Colbert, the Passage des Panoramas and Rue Montorgueil. Most of the sites are free to enter, and only the Rex Studios tour needs a ticket.
Is the 2nd arrondissement a good place to stay in Paris?
Yes, and to me it’s one of the most sensible choices in the city: central, well connected to the metro, with good food within walking distance, and at lower prices than the streets around Place Vendôme. You’ll find the hotels on my page of hotels in the 2nd and the apartments on my page of apartments in the 2nd.
Which covered passages are there in the 2nd arrondissement?
The 2nd is home to the Galerie Vivienne and Galerie Colbert, the Passage des Panoramas, the Passage Choiseul and the Passage du Grand-Cerf. You can link them all on my covered passages itinerary.
What does the behind-the-scenes tour at Le Grand Rex show?
The Rex Studios tour takes visitors to the projection room, behind the screen and to special-effects stations, in the largest Art Deco movie theater in Europe. It’s interactive and a great fit for families.
When is the food market in the 2nd arrondissement open?
The Marché Bourse on Place de la Bourse is open on Tuesdays and Fridays from 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. It runs into the evening rather than being an early-morning market.
Which walking itineraries pass through the 2nd arrondissement of Paris?
The covered passages itinerary mostly takes place in the 2nd, and four more itineraries pass through it and continue into other arrondissements: Napoleon on the Right Bank, in the footsteps of Émile Zola, in the footsteps of Molière, and 48 hours of fashion.