One of Napoleon III’s best decisions late in his reign, inspired by Baron Haussmann’s plan to renew Paris, was to create a new park called Buttes-Chaumont in the 19th arrondissement, in the northeast of Paris, for the leisure, calm and recreation of the residents living in the area.
The park opened in 1867, and it quickly became one of the largest green spaces in Paris, and without a doubt one of the most successful, original, impressive and distinctive ones in the city. Many even claim this is the most beautiful and pleasant park in the City of Light, with a stunning, picturesque look that catches the eye. It’s a sort of spectacular nature reserve right in the heart of the city. For painters, photographers, athletes and nature lovers, the place is nothing short of paradise. On the other hand, many tourists leave it off their itinerary, and it remains unfamiliar to many.
From a Bare Hill to a Charming Park
The history of this magical place was not always rosy. Before it became a stunning park, it was called “the Bare Hill” (Le Mont Chauve). At the start of the 19th century, when it served Baron Haussmann’s needs, it was a quarry and a garbage dump full of trash. It was a genuinely unpleasant, repulsive spot for the residents living nearby in working-class neighborhoods. As if that weren’t enough, violent clashes broke out here in 1814 against the Prussians, whose invasion was in fact stopped right here.
Planning the work was entrusted to the engineer and landscape architect Adolphe Alphand, who decided to build a park in the English style, imitating a mountainous landscape. The quarry was covered with fertile soil, rocky cliffs were built, and at the center of the park a lake was created with varied vegetation and a large artificial island, “Île du Belvédère”. Tall trees were planted, promising a constant soundtrack of birdsong, among them sycamores, weeping willows, poplars and chestnut trees. In the fall, the park is covered in a spectacular, multicolored carpet of fallen leaves.
In this amazing place you’ll also find lawns where Parisians like to sunbathe on warm, sunny days, streams, an impressive and surprising waterfall, a cave with a ceiling covered in artificial stalactites, swans and ducks gliding along happily, wonderful viewpoints and more.
The flourishing, multilevel Buttes-Chaumont spans about 62 acres, and it has been called the closest thing Paris has to New York’s Central Park. Extensive work was carried out here over four years starting in 1864, which made possible the grand opening on Labor Day, May 1, 1867.
Residents of the area, and residents of Paris in general, welcomed the new park with its exotic beauty with great enthusiasm. Couples in love turned the park into a favorite spot for romantic strolls, runners enjoy a good jogging workout up and down the hill, cyclists come here often, and physical education teachers at the neighborhood’s schools have adopted the place as the main training ground for their students.
The artificial lake, which was dug out and draws its water from the Canal Saint-Martin, and the island built on it with a hill rising to a height of 50 meters, became highly distinctive attractions in their surroundings. In 1869, two years after the park opened, a small temple in an ancient Roman style was added at the top of the hill, a copy of the Temple of Vesta found in the gardens of Tivoli. It was designed by the architect Gabriel Davioud.
From the small temple, you get a breathtaking view with a wonderful perspective toward Montmartre, the Sacré-Cœur Basilica and the church of Saint-Denis. Two bridges connect to the island, and both offer a wonderful view over the park. One bridge earned the unflattering nickname “the suicide bridge”, since all too often, it lived up to its name. The second bridge is “the suspended bridge”.
One of the most surprising and impressive attractions in Buttes-Chaumont is one you’ll discover as you walk along the pedestrian path that runs along the lake’s shores, when suddenly you catch the loud noise of rushing, roaring water. Hidden inside an artificial cave is a spectacular waterfall, 32 meters high. Look up at the ceiling of the cave and you’ll find a row of beautiful stalactites.
For the benefit of the community and the neighborhood’s children, the park sometimes hosts activities for the whole family. Over the years, it has featured a puppet theater, pony rides, sports activities for families, outdoor art workshops, concerts, sports clubs, playground equipment for young children, a restaurant, a café and more. Most of these activities only take place during the summer months, and some have been discontinued over time. If you plan to visit the park to take part in these activities, check in advance with the tourist office or the arrondissement’s town hall nearby.
How do you get to Buttes-Chaumont?
Around the park there are six main entrances and nine secondary ones, all of which are locked at night. The metro stations next to the park are Buttes-Chaumont and Botzaris, both on line 7 bis. You can also reach the park by bus on lines 26, 60 and 75.
To wrap up, I can only highly recommend a visit to this appealing place. No one has ever regretted it. You certainly won’t be the first.
Looking for more things to do in Paris?
Here are a few options:
- If you’ve finished exploring Buttes-Chaumont and you’re in the 19th arrondissement, check out the article Attractions in the 19th arrondissement and find more interesting places to explore.
- If you’re looking for more interesting parks, check out the article 15 Parks, Gardens and Forests in Paris You Have to Know.
- If you’re looking for more attractions in Paris, check out the article Attractions in Paris: what not to miss and where to buy tickets
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