More than 400 parks and gardens make Paris a green city, offering residents and travelers alike a bit of peace, rest and distance from the city’s pressure, noise and air pollution. At its two far ends, west and east, lie the city’s green lungs, once hunting grounds for kings: the famous Bois de Boulogne in the west, and the slightly larger, somehow less known but equally attractive Bois de Vincennes in the east.
Both forests are laid out in the English landscape style, and both have stunning man-made lakes where you can go boating, huge lawns, cycling and horseback riding trails, and many kilometers of woodland. In either one you can easily spend a full day surrounded by nature and enjoy an ideal escape from the bustle of the city.
In this article, I’ve put together a tour of Bois de Vincennes covering its different sides, activities and attractions. The forest lies in the east of the city, bordering the 12th arrondissement. Despite losing tens of thousands of trees in a severe, unusual storm in 1999, it is still hugely impressive. The forest was a favorite of the kings of France, who loved hunting across its endless expanses in the Middle Ages. In the 13th century, Philip II of France had the forest enclosed to use as a hunting ground. Only in 1860 did Napoleon III grant it to the state, turning it into a public park open to everyone. The forest has enormous lawns that make a wonderful spot for picnics on a nice day.
It’s worth noting that the metro and the RER suburban trains only reach the edges of the park. To get from place to place inside it, you’ll need a bus, a car, or a rented bicycle.
Instead of a map: under each stop’s heading you’ll find its address, and every address is a link. Click it, and the spot will open right away in Google Maps.
Lac Daumesnil
Let’s start the tour at the Porte Dorée metro station (line 8). From there, a very short walk south takes you past the Palais de la Porte Dorée, once a museum of African and Oceanic art, though its collection has since moved to the Musée du quai Branly. On the ground floor you’ll still find giant aquariums, open to visitors for a fee. The rest of the building now houses the Musée de l’Histoire de l’Immigration.
A very short walk from there brings you to one of the most stunning parts of the forest: Lac Daumesnil, the largest lake in Bois de Vincennes and one of my favorite spots in all of Paris. You can rent a boat and spend a quiet, relaxing time out on the water, but I’d recommend even more walking around the lake’s right side, passing the Buddhist center (closed to visitors most of the year except for Buddhist holidays), crossing the bridge, and exploring the two charming islands where you’ll find plenty of wildlife and lush, blooming greenery.
The bridge leads to Île de Reuilly, and right next to it, on your right, you’ll find an ancient Roman structure with a small artificial stalactite grotto underneath it. A short distance from there is a restaurant. A second bridge connects the two islands, leading to Île de Bercy. If you visit in the fall, you’ll get to enjoy sweeping stretches of unusually beautiful autumn foliage.
If your trip happens to fall in April or May and you’re traveling with kids, the next section was practically written for you.
Foire du Trône
Every year, from early April through the end of May, the Pelouse de Reuilly near Lac Daumesnil hosts the largest funfair in France, complete with roller coasters, a giant Ferris wheel, and plenty of rides, some of which are known for turning stomachs. Admission to the fair itself is free; you pay per ride. Either way, watch out for pickpockets.
The Zoo
If you love animals, or you’ve come with kids, your next stop is the zoo, right near the lake. You’ll spot it by the giant artificial rock rising about 70 meters high. The renovated zoo is the largest in France, home to over 1,000 animals of every size and kind. It opens daily at 9:30 a.m., and at 10:00 a.m. during the winter months. A full-price ticket costs 20 euros. Pricey, but worth it.
Buying a ticket for the zoo
If you’d like to book tickets in advance and skip the ticket window, feel free to check out this link.
Château de Vincennes
From the zoo area, you can hop on bus line 46, which takes you on a short ride north to the Château de Vincennes and the Parc Floral. The Château de Vincennes, reachable from central Paris via metro line 1, is often called the medieval Versailles, and thanks to the impressive grounds surrounding it, Bois de Vincennes carries a much richer history than its twin, Bois de Boulogne.
The château is a kind of medieval architectural gem, part original and part reconstructed in remarkable fashion. A moat more than a kilometer long surrounds the walls. The fortified castle was built by King Philip IV and completed in 1369 by Charles V. Starting in 1652, Mazarin, the governor appointed over Vincennes, added a row of symmetrical royal pavilions surrounding the main courtyard.
The main keep, dating from the 14th century, rises 52 meters high. From the early 16th century onward, the place went through several transformations, serving at various times as a prison and even a porcelain factory. Under Napoleon, the château was converted into a massive weapons depot. In 1660, Louis XIV spent his honeymoon in the King’s Pavilion. The English king Henry V died imprisoned here, while the Marquis de Sade, Diderot and Mirabeau were all held captive within its walls.
In 1791, Lafayette stopped an angry mob from destroying the place, and in 1814, General Daumesnil refused to surrender the château to the Allied forces. In 1917, the spy Mata Hari was executed here.
The grounds today house two small museums: a museum of hunting and a museum of military insignia.
Here’s a short, beautiful video showing off Château de Vincennes in all its glory:
Buying a ticket for Château de Vincennes
If you’d like to buy tickets for the château and its museums without waiting in line, feel free to check out this link.
The Royal Chapel
King Charles V began building the chapel in the 14th century, but construction wasn’t completed until the 16th century, under Henri II. Built in the Gothic style, it was inspired by the famous Sainte-Chapelle and features stunning stained-glass windows depicting the Apocalypse of Saint John and scenes from the Last Judgment. These were restored and renewed during the 19th century. The chapel has magnificent rose windows and a rather handsome nave.
Parc Floral de Paris
After you finish touring the fortified, walled grounds of the château, head out through the back entrance, cross the road, and you’ll find yourself at the entrance to the Parc Floral de Paris, which spans over 30 hectares and holds hundreds of varieties of flowers and plants, some of them quite rare. The park was created for a flower exhibition held here in 1969.
Overall, it’s a beautiful blend of art and nature. The park’s character shifts with the seasons, though at its heart is the Garden of Four Seasons, which blooms year-round. It’s essentially a large and elaborate botanical park, home to a wide variety of plants, trees and flowers. Here you’ll find hundreds of flower varieties in every type, color and size, including irises, orchids, lotus flowers, an impressive dahlia garden, water lilies, and a range of unusual medicinal plants.
The flower garden also has a large playground for kids to enjoy. On summer evenings, live music performances take place here, and art exhibitions are held several times a year. The park opens daily at 9:30 a.m.
What else can you see in Bois de Vincennes?
After covering all the main attractions of the forest, you’re probably ready for a rest. But if you’ve still got energy left, or you want to dedicate an extra day to this lovely area, Bois de Vincennes still has a few more interesting things to offer.
Lac des Minimes
Lac des Minimes is the second-largest lake in the forest, located in its northeastern section. If you enjoy walking, you can reach it on foot from the Parc Floral, or take bus line 114 and get off at the Porte Jaune stop. If you want to head straight there from central Paris, take the RER line A2 and get off at the Fontenay-sous-Bois station.
Lac des Minimes has three islands, though only one of them is connected by a pedestrian bridge, at Porte Jaune. Here too you can rent a boat and paddle around the islands.
Lac de Saint-Mandé
In the northwestern part of the forest lies Lac de Saint-Mandé, a small, quiet, pastoral lake used mainly by the children of the town of Saint-Mandé. Get here via metro line 1, getting off two stops before the château, at the Saint-Mandé-Tourelle station.
The Hippodrome
If you enjoy betting, or simply want to watch a horse race, you’re welcome at the Hippodrome de Vincennes, located in the southeastern part of the forest near the Marne river. Get here via RER line A2, getting off at the Joinville-le-Pont station. The races take place in the evenings; for schedule information, call 0149771717.
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