Paris for the Advanced: 5 Reasons to Return to the City of Light

A while back, I wrote an article called Paris for Beginners, which serves as a guide for anyone visiting Paris for the first time and not sure where to start. Ever since then I’ve wanted to put together a kind of “Paris for the advanced” guide too, but I wasn’t quite sure how to do it. The reason is simple: when you make a guide for beginners, the boundaries are very clear: you focus on the main attractions of the City of Light, and if there’s time left, you add a few attractions, like the Palace of Versailles, located outside Paris. But what do you put in a guide for the advanced?

In a certain sense, this whole blog is already an advanced guide, since it was created by an advanced Francophile with more than 20 trips to Paris under his belt, and it contains no shortage of material, sometimes bordering on the esoteric, that only die-hard Paris addicts would appreciate.

So then an idea came to me: ask the Francophiles community on Facebook what makes each of them come back to Paris again and again.

The result was more than 120 comments offering plenty of excellent reasons why it’s worth coming back again and again, and why this city simply never runs out. So I gathered the comments I liked best, which you can find below, and from them I pulled together a few tips for anyone who wants to take an advanced “Paris trip.”

The Marais: The Neighborhood Responsible for My Paris Addiction

Let’s start this chapter of “Paris for the Advanced” at the place that got me hooked on Paris back in 2005: the Marais, beloved by no shortage of Francophiles, and for good reason.

As you could read in my article The Ghosts of Paris, my love for Paris began back in my childhood, though at the time Paris was just one destination among many I could fly to. And indeed, from age 3 to age 28 I traveled through most of Europe (Germany, Austria, England, Italy and more) and gathered plenty of experiences along the way.

Following the Francophilia that was already brewing inside me, in 2002 I won a one-month scholarship to study the French language at the University of Besançon, and afterward I got to spend a few weeks in Paris. Did I fall head over heels for Paris after that? Quite the opposite! A series of strikes made France rather unbearable at the time, my Francophilia level dropped, and as I boarded the plane I told myself I was done with France for good.

And indeed, between 2002 and 2005 I didn’t visit France at all, and focused mainly on Germany and Austria. It was actually in Vienna, where I won a scholarship to study German for two months, that my love for Paris began to bloom again. In my class there was a French guy who had come to Vienna to follow his girlfriend, and since he didn’t know English and the teacher didn’t know French, I took it upon myself to act as translator. So I didn’t really manage to learn much German there (aside from the sentence: “Would you be so kind as to trim my beard a little”), but going back to French reignited some longing for Paris in me.

When I finished my German studies, I went back home, finished my master’s degree and started looking for a job. After quite a few interviews, I was hired by a small company in Jerusalem, but since it happened right before Passover, they asked me to start working after the holiday. Since I didn’t know when I’d get time off again, I decided this was a great opportunity to travel abroad, and I started looking for an affordable vacation package. By chance (or maybe not), I found one to Paris of all places, and I arrived there right after the Passover seder.

I stayed at the lovely, inexpensive Relais du Marais hotel, located in the northern part of the Marais near the Place de la République, so almost everywhere I went on that trip took me through this magical neighborhood. I don’t know why, but somehow in all my previous trips to Paris I’d never spent much time there, so the Marais managed to amaze and surprise me all at once. And the more I explored it, the more I fell in love with it, and through it, with Paris. That trip ended too soon, and I came home feeling like I hadn’t gotten enough, and decided that on my next opportunity, I’d go back to Paris. And indeed, I went right back on my next trip in 2006, then 2007, 2008, 2009… well, you get the idea 🙂

In short, that short trip in 2005 and that visit to the Marais sparked an addiction that has only gotten stronger over the years. The result is that what used to be a once-a-year trip became twice a year, and in recent years I’ve found that even three week-long visits to Paris simply aren’t enough for me. So if you’ve already visited Paris once and you’re afraid of getting addicted, I highly recommend you try to avoid the Marais. Everyone else, feel free to keep reading for my recommendations.

A Few Recommendations for Francophiles Who Want an Advanced Paris Trip Through the Marais

• The main charm of the Marais is the connection between old and new, between history and the present. So before you visit, I recommend reading about the history of Paris between the Renaissance and the French Revolution, since that period represents the golden age of the Marais, and getting familiar with it will elevate your trip.
• After reading about the history of Paris, it’s time to start discovering it on foot. The basic route that passes through most of the neighborhood’s main attractions is this route, but I’m sure you’ve already done it as part of your “Paris for beginners” trip. For an advanced Paris trip, I have the walking route through the northern Marais following Madame de Sévigné (1626-1696), which will let you trace the footsteps of this fascinating literary icon and discover lesser-known parts of the Marais.
• And finally, how can we do this without a little food? If you’re a serious eater, you’ll definitely enjoy Anton Tchili’s culinary walking tour of the Marais.

The Architecture: Parisian Magic That’s Always With You

Paris has a kind of architectural paradox, in my opinion. On one hand, a large part of the city was rebuilt by Baron Haussmann (1809-1891) and Napoleon III between 1852 and 1870, resulting in a very uniform style of wide boulevards and five-story apartment buildings. And yet, we never get bored walking the streets of Paris, and we keep coming back to it again and again. How do we reconcile this paradox?

The first answer is that even in Haussmann’s architecture, built on seemingly very rigid rules (the number of floors in a building, the height of apartments, the number of balconies, etc.), there’s actually quite a bit of creative freedom. So almost every building contains some unique element: an ornately carved front door, charming sculptures on the walls, and even a giant angel…

The second answer is that although Napoleon III did tear down a lot of old Paris, plenty of buildings from earlier periods still remain (especially from the 17th and 18th centuries, but also a few from the Renaissance and the Middle Ages), and we haven’t even gotten to the more modern construction (which some people love, and some, like me, not so much). As a result, a walk through any neighborhood will reward you with a wealth of architectural gems, from large, impressive monuments to small, hidden corners of charm. That’s why when people ask me about “advanced Paris,” I answer:

Just go wherever your eyes lead you and you’ll discover treasures. You don’t really need a guide, a “checklist of monuments,” or a map.

Recommendations for Street Walks in Paris, for Francophiles Who’ve Already Seen a Few Things in the City of Light

• So if you’ve already seen the main monuments, let me suggest a walking tour through the 9th and 10th arrondissements. You’ll be surprised to discover that it’s precisely in these lesser-known areas that you’ll find some especially magical architectural gems.
• And here’s another lovely square you may not have heard of, located on the other side of Paris, called Place Montsouris. The one and only Ruti Shimoni wrote about it, and if you read her article, I promise you’ll fall for Paris at lightning speed.
• Even advanced Francophiles find themselves coming back again and again to a few especially beloved spots, so there’s no reason you shouldn’t do the same. My favorite square is Place Furstenberg, because to me it’s the most romantic square in Paris, and even if you’re after new and lesser-known places, I recommend leaving a little time for it too.
• And finally, if you’re a couple in love who wants to combine business with pleasure, then during your advanced Paris trip I highly recommend checking out these romantic spots, because who knows, maybe in one of them the muse will strike and inspire a proposal…

The Gardens of Paris: Connecting with the City of Light’s Natural Side

A trip to Paris can never be complete without visiting at least a few of its gardens. And the truth is, even if on your last trip to Paris you visited some of the main gardens, like the Luxembourg Gardens or the Tuileries, there are still dozens of magical gardens and little green spots waiting to be discovered.

What is it about these Paris gardens that keeps bringing Francophiles back to them again and again? Let’s start with the endless bursts of color through spring, summer and fall, as each season brings its own unique blooms that paint the park in different shades. Second, the impressive aesthetics of these gardens, the result of about 500 years of experience in landscape architecture. As a result, a walk through a park isn’t just a stroll among trees and flowers, but a walk among statues, small palaces (in the Bois de Boulogne), miniature temples (in the Buttes-Chaumont), and ruins that look like they’ve stood there for thousands of years when they’re actually only from the 19th century (Parc Monceau). And finally, there’s something about walking into a park that brings out the child in each of us, along with some inexplicable joy, and that’s something even advanced Francophiles are always happy to feel.

So for all these reasons, an advanced Paris trip isn’t complete without visiting at least a few gardens (including some you might not know yet), and I have a few recommendations on the matter:

Gardens More and Less Familiar, for More and Less Advanced Francophiles

• First, let me recommend Yoel Thamanlis’s wonderful article, one of the greatest Francophiles I know, which rounds up all the important gardens in the City of Light for you.
• After visiting a few big gardens, it’s time to visit Paris’s small, lesser-known gardens. One of them is Square Montholon, which has both a charming garden and a fascinating story.
• Another option, for anyone who’s had their fill of big forests and gardens, is to go visit the smallest garden in Paris.
• And finally, as I said before, even advanced Francophiles return to their favorite spots in the City of Light, and there’s nothing wrong with that. So here are a few of my favorite gardens that are always worth revisiting: the Tuileries Garden (for its fascinating history), the Luxembourg Gardens (for the architecture) and Parc Monceau (for the carousel and waffles I love so much).

The Food of Paris and Its Cafés: Culinary Riches That Bring Francophiles Back to Paris Again and Again

The Culture of Paris: Between Chanson and Museum

I saved the most important reason, in my opinion, for last. To me, the “secret spice” that makes Paris so special and so beloved is French culture.

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Over 2,000 years of history, Paris has hosted some of the greatest writers, philosophers, painters and musicians, who were influenced by it and in turn shaped the look of the City of Light, its beauty and its character. We’ve already talked in earlier sections about Paris’s buildings, streets and gardens. But alongside them stand plenty of museums, both famous and lesser-known, where you can find the best of French art.

Alongside these museums, Paris has a rich culture of music, street art and theater that can suit almost any taste and add special colors to your next trip to Paris. And I haven’t even mentioned the endless films made in the City of Light, each one raising your Francophilia level and liable to send you off buying plane tickets and packing your bags without even meaning to.

So it’s no surprise that so many Francophiles keep coming back to the City of Light again and again because of its cultural richness, and now all that’s left is for you to decide how you want to experience that richness.

Cultural Activities for an Advanced Paris Trip

• First of all, I’d recommend doing a little “homework”: to get in the mood, listen to a few chansons or read about the fascinating history of France in general and the City of Light in particular.
• Second, I’d recommend checking what exhibitions will be running while you’re in Paris and buying tickets in advance to avoid standing in line (remember: on a trip, there’s one resource even more precious than money, and that’s your time).
• And finally, check out my page of Paris walking routes and pick a few routes that follow famous people who lived in Paris. You can choose routes following famous writers like Émile Zola (1840-1902) and Victor Hugo (1802-1885), fashion icons like Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008) and Coco Chanel (1883-1971), or even Francophile artists from Israel like Naomi Shemer (1930-2004) and Benny Amdursky (1928-1994).

The Francophiles’ Parade, 2018 Edition

And finally, if all these reasons weren’t enough to make you plan your next trip to Paris, here are a few more reasons given by members of the Francophiles Anonymous community that just might convince you to go back to Paris, and soon:

Paris didn’t open its arms to me when I arrived there in the 1960s, accompanying my husband on an assignment. All my knowledge of French came down to quoting one of La Fontaine’s fables. After about five years, I learned to know this wonderful city, where there is never a dull moment, and I go back to it every few months. For those who ask and don’t understand this pull toward a city that isn’t my birthplace, it’s hard to explain. You don’t need to plan walking routes, just wake up in the morning and start wandering, keep your eyes open, enjoy the beauty of the old buildings, try to guess who lived in them. Sitting at a café is as good as a night at the theater, and that endless beauty never runs out: the tastefully arranged shop windows. Sometimes, while wandering, I find a shop that sells only one kind of product, just socks, or just walking sticks and umbrellas, or just neckties. The chocolate shops, the bakeries (boulangeries), and Paris has that special light, the one that turns every photo into a work of art. On every visit I see something I hadn’t seen before: an old alley, a statue I hadn’t noticed before. So go out, get lost in the streets of Paris, and visit a museum or two and a current exhibition, and everyone will have their own Paris. (Nava Rotbard)

Paris is oxygen to me, literally. From the age of 7 I felt French with every fiber of my being. I fell desperately in love with pictures of Paris, with French chansons, with Michel Berger, I chased after every French film, and… I fell in love, pretty much only with Frenchmen (I even married one). When I arrived in Paris for the first time at age 25, it felt like coming home: to the beautiful streets, the lively cafés, the perfect Seine, the museums, the boulangeries and pâtisseries, to… the beautiful life!
I’ve traveled a lot around the world, but Paris will always be my number one.
And the next visit will be my 50th to the most beautiful city. (Yafa Felder Sasson)

It’s a city that never ends. A surprise around every corner, a surprise in every courtyard, stunning and fascinating architecture, a vibrant city whose colors shift with every hour of the day, a city overflowing with flavors, a city that waits and asks to have its sights and tastes discovered, a city where every glance you cast at it is a wonderful photograph of supreme beauty. Need I say more??? (Ruth Pen)

The smell and the look of the streets. And the fact that there’s always a new corner to discover. It’s like going back to an old lover: always exciting, thrilling, enjoyable, and it always makes you want to come back again… (Rotem Gilad)

There’s some kind of magic over the city. From the moment I step out of the taxi I feel different. Something in the air and the light, as if a director built the most precise set he could to make your heart race. Add to that the hypnotic sound of the language and the chic that follows the people’s look, and you get a perfect blend like nowhere else in the world.
I first visited at age 12 and fell in love the way you fall for a TV star or something like that. And I keep going back to it, again and again, just to breathe (Maya Reshef Hoffman)

It’s a sickness. A month or two go by after my last visit and then I feel I simply must see the Seine, stand in line at the Louvre, raise my head to the sky, and feel truly, truly lucky to be in Paris again! (Nurit Tamari)

Like a moth to a flame…
The first time, in 1974, reaching Paris was a lifelong dream. I studied at the Alliance, and my connection to the language and culture put France in general, and Paris in particular, at the top of my priorities. With a backpack, a youth hostel card and $450 in my pocket (at the time you weren’t allowed to take more than that out of the country), I set off to conquer Europe… The city conquered me, swept me away with its beauty, captivated me with its museums. I felt an enormous emotional upheaval. I was so broke I made do with one baguette and a piece of cheese as food for the whole day! But to this day I remember that experience, which swept me up during the two weeks I spent there out of the four months I spent crisscrossing Europe. When I came back, I remember, morning after morning I would wake up and feel for a moment as if I were waking up in a hostel in Paris. Four years later I traveled with my husband, and of course, Paris was our first destination (Ariella Hermelin).