Pablo Picasso (1881-1973) is rightly considered the greatest painter of the modern era. Although he was born in Spain, starting in 1904 he made Paris his permanent home and settled in Montmartre, which at the time drew in the Parisian bohemian crowd thanks to its cheap rents. While living in Montmartre, Picasso painted some of his greatest works and helped give birth to Cubism. So even though he moved to Montparnasse in 1912, anyone who wants to get to know Picasso’s Paris should really explore Montmartre. This walk focuses almost entirely on that neighborhood and covers several of the key stops in his life. At the end, we’ll hop on the metro and head over to the Marais to visit the Musée Picasso, which reopened in September 2014.
Instead of a map: under the heading of each stop you’ll find its address, and every address is a link. Click it, and the spot will open right away in Google Maps.
The First Studio
Start the walk at the Abbesses metro station, named after a convent that once stood there (legend has it that the abbess of the convent supplied nuns to satisfy the sexual needs of King Francis I). Head to Rue Ravignan, climb the stairs, and you’ll reach the spot where the “Bateau Lavoir” (Laundry Boat) once stood, Picasso’s first studio in Paris (the building got its name because its exterior reminded people of the boats on the banks of the Seine where laundresses worked, using the river water to wash clothes). On your left you’ll see a window displaying old photos of the building along with pictures of Picasso and his friends. The building originally served as a piano factory before being converted into a studio for penniless artists (electricity or running water were out of the question). It was here that Picasso painted “Les Demoiselles d’Avignon.”
Where Picasso Liked to Eat and Drink in Paris
Keep climbing the hill until you reach Au Lapin Agile, one of Picasso and his friends’ favorite hangouts. At the time, Picasso was so poor that he often paid for food and drink with his own paintings. Today the venue hosts wonderful chanson evenings, and I highly recommend arriving by 9:00 p.m. so you don’t miss out on the musical experience (book tickets in advance).
Backtrack a little, and if you’re hungry, stop by the restaurant La Bonne Franquette, where Van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec and, of course, Picasso once ate. From what I’ve heard, the place has turned into a tourist trap, so another option a few meters away is the restaurant Le Pulbot.
Where Did His Mistress Live?
After eating, feel free to make a short detour to Place du Tertre and the Sacré-Cœur. But if you want to stick to the route, keep going until you reach Boulevard de Clichy. There, at number 11, Picasso lived with his mistress, and the apartment was a major upgrade from the studio at the Bateau Lavoir.
The Mansion in the Marais That Became the Musée Picasso
From here, walk a few meters to the Pigalle metro station and take the train to Chemin Vert. From there, walk to the Musée Picasso, housed in the Hôtel Salé. The museum, which underwent a 52 million euro renovation and reopened in September 2014, holds quite a few works by Picasso and other 20th-century artists, making it an excellent place to end the walk.
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