I first discovered Brantôme on a spring evening in 2010. That day I had gone to visit the northern Dordogne, and after stopping at Château de Puyguilhem in the second half of the day, I was looking for one more place to see before heading back to where I was staying, not far from Montignac.
A lovely woman working at the tourist office in Villars, where Château de Puyguilhem is located, recommended I visit Brantôme, about 15 kilometers away. I took her advice, and after driving through pastoral fields, I arrived in Brantôme.
It was love at first sight!
The combination of the setting sun above the walls of the impressive abbey and the Dronne River flowing below created a magical scene. Since night was about to fall, I didn’t have enough time to visit the abbey itself, so I made do with a stroll through the park and a short walk along the river. At that moment, I promised myself I would come back.
The chance to return to the “scene of the crime” came my way in September 2019. That year I was staying near Sarlat and decided to head toward Brantôme, both because I missed this gorgeous town and because I finally wanted to meet Rotem Bar and her husband Uri, whom I’d known from Facebook for a while.
It was a lot of fun meeting two such wonderful people, and even more fun exploring Brantôme and the nearby Château de Bourdeille with them. But even that wasn’t enough for me, so I decided that as soon as I could, I would come back to Brantôme and really get to know it and its surroundings in depth.
Three years later, after a pandemic that kept me from getting there in the summer of 2021, I finally made it to Brantôme with my parents for two whole weeks. Of course, we spent a good deal of that time exploring other places, which you can read about on the Périgord page of this site, but I also had plenty of time to dedicate to Brantôme itself and to learn about its history, its markets, and its restaurants.
I’m about to share everything I learned with you, so let’s get started.
The history of Brantôme
Our story begins, of all places, in the Holy Land, with a horrifying massacre that may never have actually happened.
According to Christian scripture, Herod heard that the Messiah was about to be born in Bethlehem. Not wanting any competition for his throne, he sent soldiers there and ordered them to kill all children two years old and younger. There’s no reliable historical evidence for this massacre, but according to Christian tradition, Herod’s soldiers slaughtered the children but failed to kill Jesus, since his father Joseph had fled with him to Egypt.
From this event, known as the Massacre of the Innocents, came Saint Sicaire, whose relics would lead to the founding of the abbey of Brantôme in the 8th century. But who was he exactly?
One theory holds that Saint Sicaire was one of the innocent children killed on Herod’s orders (and indeed, in many paintings and stained-glass windows, Sicaire is shown as a small child). But that raises the question: which of the children was Sicaire, and what made him, specifically, a saint? As an infant, he wouldn’t have had much chance to perform miracles or spread a faith that didn’t yet exist in his lifetime.
Another theory holds that “Sicarius” means soldier, since “sica” (Latin) is a dagger, the kind carried by Herod’s soldiers. Incidentally, the same word gave us “Sicarii,” the Jewish zealots who rebelled against the Romans and also carried such daggers. According to this theory, the soldier repented after witnessing the massacre (and perhaps taking part in it), later converted to Christianity, and was made a saint for it.
Either way, whether he was the murdered child or the soldier who did the killing, the saint’s relics ended up with Wisebode, count of Périgord, who in 769 decided to found a Benedictine abbey to house them. The abbey was built on a kind of rock shelf, between ancient caves and the river, but the saint’s protection didn’t extend far enough: the abbey was destroyed by the Vikings about a century later.
During the 11th century the abbey was rebuilt, and from that rebuilding, against all odds, the bell tower survives to this day, considered the oldest of its kind. The abbey continued to develop over the years, and it was renovated and significantly altered in the 15th century, when the cloister was built.
For those who aren’t familiar with the term, a cloister is a square courtyard surrounded on all four sides by arcades, with a garden or paved square at its center, meant to give the monks shelter from the rain while they were out in the open air. Sadly, only the western section of this cloister survives, because in the 19th century the architect Paul Abadie (1812-1884) decided to tear down most of it to give the abbey a view of the river.
But let’s go back a bit in time, to the 16th century. Between 1559 and 1598, France was torn, on and off, by a brutal religious war between Catholics and Protestants. During this war, the abbey of Brantôme and the town around it were nearly destroyed down to their foundations by Admiral Gaspard de Coligny (1519-1572), the Protestant leader.
The man who managed to save the place and its people from death was none other than Pierre de Bourdeille (1540-1614), an adventurer and writer who served as abbot of Brantôme. He managed to win Coligny’s favor, even agreeing to temporarily adopt some Protestant principles to do it. That was enough to convince the admiral that nothing good would come of massacring the local people, and Coligny went off to massacre others instead, people who lacked Pierre de Bourdeille’s particular charm.
Later, after falling from his horse, Pierre de Bourdeille, who took the name Brantôme after the abbey he ran, was forced to retire from the business of war and diplomacy. He turned to writing his memoirs and became a celebrated author. His most famous book, “Les Dames Galantes” (The Gallant Ladies), is a collection of entertaining anecdotes about some of the most famous women in French history. While it’s not exactly a history book in the strict sense, it’s well worth reading (there, for instance, you can read about the affair that took place at the Tour de Nesle).
If we keep traveling through time, we’ll find that, much like Saint-Jean-de-Côle, which I wrote about earlier, not much happened here after the 16th century. True, a railway line passed through at the end of the 19th century, used by none other than the president of France during World War I, Raymond Poincaré (1860-1934), the man who gave Brantôme its nickname, “the Venice of the Périgord.” But the trains haven’t run here in a long time, and this charming town continues to doze on the riverbank.
What to see and do in Brantôme
The abbey of Brantôme
This is, without a doubt, the main attraction of Brantôme, and it’s absolutely worth a visit.
The visit begins in the caves located in the abbey’s courtyard. This is where the first monks prayed, starting in 769, and where they carved several impressive sculptures and works of art directly into the rock.
The largest and most beautiful of these works depicts the Last Judgment and was created during the 15th century. If you look closely, you’ll see that the people depicted are dressed in the clothing of the period, which suggests they were modeled on actual local residents. Who were these people and why are they there? I’m sorry to say I never found a good answer to that question.
After you finish visiting the caves, head back to the abbey entrance and climb the 17th-century stone staircase. Today the abbey building mostly serves as the town hall of Brantôme, but you can visit the impressive staircase hall itself and one of the abbey’s large rooms, which has been turned into a kind of museum hosting rotating exhibitions.
After you finish visiting this part of the abbey, you can head out and see what’s left of the cloister and the Gothic church, where you’ll find a sculpture depicting the Massacre of the Innocents. From there, you can also climb the old bell tower (as noted, some say it’s the oldest in France) and take in the view of Brantôme from above.
By the way, while you’re climbing the tower, don’t miss the inscription on the wall left by a soldier stationed there in the 19th century. It’s quite entertaining to read what he thought of his commanding officer :-).
A boat ride on the river
Not far from the abbey, under the “elbow-shaped bridge” (Pont Coudé) that leads to it, you’ll find a small river boat that takes you cruising on the Dronne. It’s a pleasant and relaxing experience, and if you happen to speak French, the guide will share stories about Brantôme and the people who lived there.
Visiting the markets of Brantôme
Like any self-respecting French town, Brantôme has a market every Friday (in the summer months there’s also a smaller market on Tuesdays in the main square).
This market can’t compete with the big ones in Sarlat and Périgueux, but it has plenty of charm thanks to its setting along the river and the bridges, and thanks to the wonderful food you’ll find there.
Another market that takes place in Brantôme from time to time is an antiques market, also called a “vide grenier” (literally, “attic clear-out”). If you love old books, early 20th-century porcelain plates, or vintage toys, there’s a good chance you’ll find a bargain or two here.
Since, unlike the weekly market, this one doesn’t happen on a fixed schedule, it’s worth checking this website, which has information on various events happening in and around Brantôme, to see if one will be on during your visit.
Recommended restaurants in Brantôme (tips from Rotem Bar)
Since Rotem Bar doesn’t just live in Brantôme (she has a lovely rental unit she rents out to travelers) but also knows a thing or two about food, it only made sense to let her write this section. So, over to Rotem 🙂
Brantôme is a town of about 2,500 residents, and it has at least 32 restaurants. I haven’t tried them all, and I’m sure I’m doing a few of them a disservice. I may also find a few more gems over time and update this list.
Many restaurants in the Dordogne build their menus around the region’s crowning achievement: duck, and everything you can make from every part of it (confit, foie gras, magret, which is duck breast, and more), usually paired with truffles, cèpe mushrooms, and plenty of cream.
Ferme de Faye
One restaurant that does exactly this, and does it professionally, is located on a farm near Brantôme and takes you into the ultimate rural experience. The menu is built entirely around duck and the country traditions that go with eating it.
At this spot, you can sometimes see how the ducks are raised. There’s a shop selling duck products and other local delicacies, and alongside the meal, you can sometimes join a confit-making workshop.
The restaurant isn’t open year-round or every day of the week, so check with them and book ahead.
Link to the restaurant’s website
If you’re after a good dinner (or lunch) at a fair to moderate price in the center of Brantôme, I recommend two out of the many, though the others aren’t necessarily bad either.
Bistrot St Pierre
The first, Bistrot St Pierre, has a courtyard overlooking the river where you can sit in the summer, and it also features duck on the menu, but not only. They offer a wide range of dishes: meat, fish, and seafood, and they change the menu every few weeks.
Address: 23 Rue Victor Hugo, 24310 Brantôme en Périgord
La table d’Amelie
Further down the same street, the pedestrian stretch of Rue Victor Hugo (1802-1885) (who else?), you’ll find the restaurant La Table d’Amelie, or in English, “Amelie’s Table.” Here too you can sit on a pleasant terrace, though instead of a river view, they occasionally host singers and musicians for live performances. The food is good, the chef is creative, and the menu leans more international.
Address: 28 Rue Victor Hugo
Restaurant website
Le Jardin des Chouchoux
The second, Le Jardin des Chouchoux, is also not a cheap restaurant. Its terrace is lovely and pleasant, and the owner speaks excellent English and is very friendly. They always try to accommodate your requests, whether it’s a vegetarian dish, or something without pork or seafood.
Address: 37 Rue Pierre de Mareuil
Link to the restaurant’s website
Cheap and tasty restaurants near Brantôme
For the truly budget-friendly end of the scale, it’s worth leaving Brantôme for two slightly out-of-the-way villages, though they’re not really that far.
These are two lunch spots where the cooking is wonderful and the owners are generous. A meal at a place like this means sitting down at the table and the food just arrives. You can choose only the type of wine, with free refills, or how well-done you’d like your meat on steak day.
The meal starts with soup, moves on to a starter, a main course, a cheese plate as a first dessert, a sweet dessert, and coffee to finish. All for 14€ per diner. The two recommended restaurants are:
- Café de la Place, address: 3 Rue Arnaud de Mareuil, 24350 Tocane-Saint-Apre
- Chez Marie, address: Restaurant chez Marie, 24350 Bussac.
Where to stay in Brantôme
Brantôme isn’t just a charming place well worth visiting, it’s also a wonderful base for exploring the northern Dordogne, the Poitou region, and the Limousin.
So I highly recommend staying there for at least a few nights. My advice is 5 to 7 nights, so you can take your time discovering everything the region has to offer.
If you’ve taken my advice, feel free to check out the article Recommended hotels and apartments in Brantôme and the surrounding area and find a place to stay that fits your needs exactly.
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