What a stunning cluster of hidden gems you’ll find around Place des Abbesses (named for nuns who once lived in a convent on this hill)…
There’s the reddish-brick church of Saint-Jean-de-Montmartre, built around 1900. It combined bold, innovative materials in its construction (reinforced concrete and cast iron), was clad in brick and ceramic tile, and to this day stands out for its oriental-flavored Art Nouveau decoration.
And right across from it stands the entrance to the Abbesses metro station, designed by Hector Guimard. It’s made of green ironwork that curls in the spiraling, arabesque, plant-like lines so characteristic of the 1900s Art Nouveau style.
It’s worth noting that both the church and the metro station drew heaps of criticism when they were built, simply for being so ahead of their time in style.
And right at the edge of the square, there’s an entrance to a hidden, tucked-away, intimate garden: Square Jehan Rictus, a charming little corner with fruit trees, plants, pergolas, a fountain, benches…
The story of Montmartre’s hidden garden
The garden carries the pen name of the poet and writer Gabriel Randon de Saint-Amand, known as Jehan Rictus (1867-1933). He had an unhappy, hard childhood, but found his talents right here in Paris, on the hill of Montmartre!
It was precisely there, against the backdrop of the cabarets, bars, taverns and the colorful crowd of artists and anarchists, that his popular poetry, written in Parisian street slang, found fame. It matched the mood and atmosphere of the hill perfectly.
And now, to the main event:
In the year 2000, one of the walls bordering the garden became home to a “Wall of Love.”
It’s a colorful, cheerful, fascinating and surprising project that brought a dull, monotonous gray wall bordering the garden to life, turning the hidden garden into something of a pilgrimage site.
The artwork covers 40 square meters and is made up of 612 bluish ceramic tiles, dotted with red splashes shaped like hearts and the phrase “I love you” written in every language (the calligraphy is by Claire Kito).
Frédéric Baron, who dreamed up the project, imagined a wall that would sing a song of praise to love, to reconciliation, to dialogue, to cooperation and to erasing borders, in contrast to today’s fractured, divided, torn and violent world that shuts itself inside its own boundaries.
At the same time, in the year 2000, a mural appeared above the “I Love You” wall installation: an alluring, sensual, dark-haired woman in a fitted dress and long gloves, leaning casually against a side table.
In 2009, the female figure changed, and a fair-haired woman took her place.
Who painted it? Who is in the painting? And why did the figures in this additional mural change over time???
As it turns out, the artist is Jean-Marc Paumier (born 1952 in Fribourg, later moved to Paris), who has been working with murals, graffiti and collages in urban spaces since 1991.
His work appears under the name “Rue Meurt d’Art,” as signed on his pieces. In his art, he is keenly aware of the powerful visual impact city walls have, so he “lets the walls talk” (Les murs ont la parole), inviting people to “share in the experience of creating the street” (La rue en partage).
In his collages and murals, Jean-Marc taps into the collective memory of city dwellers, stirring up shared experiences that left a mark. He paints and pastes movie stars, political figures, intellectuals, and notable women onto the walls, and even adds “thought bubbles” with philosophical musings, as you can see in all the images here. He even invites passersby to help hang the finished piece on the wall…
His unique working technique gives his collages and paintings a long life. You’ll also notice the recurring blue color in his work (emphasized in the dresses of Ava Gardner and Rita Hayworth), a tribute to the artist he admires, Jacques Monory (1924-2018), born in Montmartre, who painted in monochrome blue.
The mystery of the Wall of Love
Now, back to the “I Love You” wall and Jean-Marc’s mural.
From 2000 to 2009, the painting above the installation showed Ava Gardner in a pose immortalizing her role as Kitty in the 1946 film “The Killers.”
After 2009, Ava’s figure was erased, and a new painting appeared showing Rita Hayworth as she appeared in the 1946 film “Gilda”. This is the painting that remains there to this day!!!
In the painting, just as in the film, Rita stands out in her sensual dress and long gloves, echoing the memory of her famous singing and dancing scene in the movie.
And here’s where the mystery comes in!
As it turns out, the outline of the first painting (Ava Gardner), which decorated the wall until 2009, simply refused to be fully erased! This led to an amusing situation: right next to the new painting of Rita Hayworth, you can still make out traces of Ava Gardner’s original outline…
A ghost?
The painting’s own fate?
A trick of time?
Whatever the reason, it doesn’t matter.
Murals have rules of their own.
You can take comfort in the “thought bubble” where Jean-Marc shares his warm, embracing, comforting insight with viewers:
“Love always makes a mess and causes chaos.
So let’s love anyway.”
Want to explore Montmartre and discover more secret spots?
Here are a few walking routes that will help you uncover plenty of the neighborhood’s secrets:
- Montmartre of the great artists is the classic Montmartre walking route, perfect for discovering its main attractions. Great if you’re visiting Paris for the first time.
- A walking tour in the footsteps of Picasso takes place mostly in the 18th arrondissement but ends in the 3rd arrondissement. You’ll discover the key places where Picasso lived and worked before becoming famous and successful with his painting “Les Demoiselles d’Avignon.”
- A culinary walking tour is for those less interested in art and more in food. Follow in the footsteps of Fanny Rothstein and discover some of the best pâtisseries in Montmartre.
- A walking tour in the footsteps of the film Amélie: the film, which takes place mostly in the 18th arrondissement, became one of the most successful French films ever made, and in my opinion, the best French film ever created. On this walking route, you’ll discover some of the main locations that appeared in the film and relive their magic.
And one last thing: after you’ve finished exploring Montmartre itself, don’t miss the lovely cemetery at the foot of the hill.
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