For years, I promised myself that one day I would dine at the table of the famous, award-winning chef Michel Bras…
I read eagerly about his devotion to nature, to herbs, to greens, to vegetables, to flowers, a trait that has long impressed the great food critics and taste-makers. I was moved by the way his cooking connects to the landscape of his birthplace and the nature of the Aubrac region, to the rural farming traditions of the area, and especially by the fact that in his restaurants he celebrated the famous local knife-making craft, the Laguiole knife.
But the years went by, and Laguiole, home to his well-known restaurant, simply never made it onto the map of my many trips around France.
Then came the long-awaited Parisian opportunity, combining two extraordinary and fascinating experiences:
A visit to the building: the Bourse de Commerce museum
The Bourse de Commerce, a historic site in the heart of Paris (in the former Les Halles market area), has gone through centuries of fascinating historical transformations that changed its use, its function and its distinctive architectural look (a convent for repentant women, a palace from the days of Catherine de’ Medici (1519-1589), an aristocratic estate, a stock exchange, a grain exchange, a commodities exchange)…
That very building recently became a museum of modern art (displaying the collection of François Pinault) and now boasts a bold, innovative and breathtaking architectural adaptation by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando, who managed to preserve the charm of the old structure while meeting the demands of a modern museum.
A meal with chefs Michel Bras and Sébastien Bras at the restaurant “Halle aux grains”
The restaurant sits on the top floor of the Bourse de Commerce. The historic building’s past, and the fact that at one point it served as an exchange, a market for wheat and grain, is exactly what shaped the gastronomic concept of chefs Michel Bras and his son Sébastien.
Grains (wheat, barley, rye, millet, spelt, quinoa, oats and more) became the starting point, and they run through every dish like a common thread throughout the whole meal.
It’s important to note that the grains aren’t the center of the dish, but rather the backdrop: they highlight, decorate, embellish and add flavor, shape and color to the main ingredients that appear in each dish.
My enjoyment of the lunch tasting menu was perfect!!!
The soft gray, airy and unobtrusive décor, the wonderfully delicious dishes (as you can see in the photos), the detailed and gracious explanations from the servers, who pointed out every ingredient and, above all, emphasized the fact that the cutlery is changed between courses (except for the mythical Laguiole knife, which stays with you throughout the whole meal, out of respect and as a tribute to the knives made in the chef’s home region), all of this made for a complete celebration.
And the location, mon Dieu!
The panoramic view of the Saint-Eustache church (the church of the market people), which is currently being renovated (as you can see in the photo), the legendary restaurant Au Pied de Cochon, the new canopy of the Forum des Halles, the Nelson Mandela gardens, and the bold colors of the Centre Pompidou, all of this added to the gastronomic experience and gave it extra value.
I remember the excitement and sense of elation I felt there, from the singing plate set by Bras, from the historical echo and the dramatic metamorphosis of the Bourse building, from the Parisian view through the windows, or simply from thinking about how lucky I am to have Paris in my world.
Note: a 5-course lunch tasting menu currently costs 88 euros per person.
Important information about the restaurant Halle aux grains
Address
2 Rue de Viarmes. You can get there via LES HALLES metro station (line 4) or LOUVRE RIVOLI (line 1).
Open days and hours
Tuesday: 19:00 to midnight
All other days: 12:00 to midnight
Restaurant website
To book a table or get more information about the restaurant, feel free to visit this link. You can find the restaurant’s menu here.
If you’d like to learn more about the building that houses the restaurant, feel free to read the article:
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